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Discussion Starter #41
Would you mind attaching one of your logs that shows the knock detection?
That’s a bit much. Too large of a file and a lot of info to comb through. What exactly were you looking to see? Maybe I can answer?
 

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You can easily attach your log here. Its been done before by others. I honestly wanted to compare your values to mine. I was also tuned by Seb. I wanted to see your afr's, boost, timing, etc.
 

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My F150 3.5l Ecoboost Gen 2 motor likes new plugs on a regular basis, as did the Gen 1 2011 I had, and the 2.7T S4 before that. All were tuned one way or another. Turbo motors are hard on plugs, and I often knew when it was time for new ones (25-30k miles usually) as fuel mileage would degrade and esp with the Fords, I'd start getting a miss under load. On the F150 Eco, running a tighter gap than the stock .030 is common. I just did plugs at 30k on the 2018 Eco, and set them to .028. Some guys running higher boost levels (more aggressive tunes) go as low as .025 gap. I always run an Iridium - Bosch Double Iridiums in the F150 now. I don't drive the Q50s much (JB4 "tuned") since it's the wife's car, but it's coming up on 30k so plugs will happen in the Spring. Bosch 9693 Double Iridium pin-to-pins are what I'll use.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #44
My F150 3.5l Ecoboost Gen 2 motor likes new plugs on a regular basis, as did the Gen 1 2011 I had, and the 2.7T S4 before that. All were tuned one way or another. Turbo motors are hard on plugs, and I often knew when it was time for new ones (25-30k miles usually) as fuel mileage would degrade and esp with the Fords, I'd start getting a miss under load. On the F150 Eco, running a tighter gap than the stock .030 is common. I just did plugs at 30k on the 2018 Eco, and set them to .028. Some guys running higher boost levels (more aggressive tunes) go as low as .025 gap. I always run an Iridium - Bosch Double Iridiums in the F150 now. I don't drive the Q50s much (JB4 "tuned") since it's the wife's car, but it's coming up on 30k so plugs will happen in the Spring. Bosch 9693 Double Iridium pin-to-pins are what I'll use.

Mike
There is nothing wrong with putting now plugs in, even if they aren’t “bad”. To me, it’s cheap easy insurance against issues that can pop up. Two thumbs up here!
 

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I doubt the 3.7 is anywhere close to being as annoying to change as my R/T was. 16 plugs gets old quick LOL.
Looking to change the plugs in the Q sometime soon just for assurance, so hopefully it’s not too bad of a job.
 

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I’m having knock correction sensitivity issues so I wanted to take a look at the plugs to see if there was any sign of detonation. This is why I also had the Direct Injection cleaning service done at the dealership. If I was going to pull them out, I was for sure going to put new plugs in place. Did it NEED them? No, they are fine. Absolutely no signs of damage, overly rich, or lean.



That’s what I meant by 30k in the post ;) I guess I should have been more clear. 30,000 miles. And, I completely agree with you, but... as stated above, I wasn’t going to go through the trouble of pulling the old ones without having a new set ready to go in. I don’t like doing work twice. I’m lazy. Lol
Did the new plugs help with knock sensitivity? The reason I ask I've been seeing some knock sensitivity during low load onset of boost in low rpm range at 1500-2200 get some knock retard only under part throttle Afr commanded and seen looks fine and under full load have no knock or retard so I doubt it is my plugs but my car has 50k with 12k being tuned 1.3 bar boost map car runs good but knock retard is during almost all of my cruising. I'm working with tuner and did some data logs so will get it straightened out. Anyway if the plugs didn't help any resolution on knock sensitivity?
 

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Did the new plugs help with knock sensitivity? The reason I ask I've been seeing some knock sensitivity during low load onset of boost in low rpm range at 1500-2200 get some knock retard only under part throttle Afr commanded and seen looks fine and under full load have no knock or retard so I doubt it is my plugs but my car has 50k with 12k being tuned 1.3 bar boost map car runs good but knock retard is during almost all of my cruising. I'm working with tuner and did some data logs so will get it straightened out. Anyway if the plugs didn't help any resolution on knock sensitivity?
Not sure if VR30Infection still frequents the forums but I'd start by looking at the type of gas you have in the car you may have gotten a bad batch. Need to remember that since you're tuned the car is going to be especially sensitive
to changes in fuel quality.

Or if you are running some type of Eth blend, these engines do not like it when going above E20. At least with the stock fuel system/injectors.
With all of that said at 50K it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do the plugs, a few other forum members also ended up doing theirs plugs
around 25-35K and mentioned they looked pretty beat up.
@JohnInNH - You did you're spark plugs early yeah?
 

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No plugs yet. Still runs like a champ.

I do have a Gates belt in my trunk. 24,850 miles on her.
 

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Not sure if VR30Infection still frequents the forums but I'd start by looking at the type of gas you have in the car you may have gotten a bad batch. Need to remember that since you're tuned the car is going to be especially sensitive
to changes in fuel quality.

Or if you are running some type of Eth blend, these engines do not like it when going above E20. At least with the stock fuel system/injectors.
With all of that said at 50K it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do the plugs, a few other forum members also ended up doing theirs plugs
around 25-35K and mentioned they looked pretty beat up.

@JohnInNH - You did you're spark plugs early yeah?
Gas is good her in NJ have a proven station I use only also have used Sunoco 260 gt+ ie 104 unleaded still happens in addition its only happens during low load and boost situations like 2 psi of boost during full load or max boost 19 psi never see knock logged parameters and afr and timing look in optimal ranges. Ordered plugs will change this week in addition to sending logs to tuner will figure out whats going on and will update thread with what my resolution turns out to be.
 

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Did the new plugs help with knock sensitivity? The reason I ask I've been seeing some knock sensitivity during low load onset of boost in low rpm range at 1500-2200 get some knock retard only under part throttle Afr commanded and seen looks fine and under full load have no knock or retard so I doubt it is my plugs but my car has 50k with 12k being tuned 1.3 bar boost map car runs good but knock retard is during almost all of my cruising. I'm working with tuner and did some data logs so will get it straightened out. Anyway if the plugs didn't help any resolution on knock sensitivity?
swapping to the same plug won't suddenly fix knock. If the old plugs were fouled they would misfire not knock. You need to go to a colder heat range plug to help with it, or fatten the fuel, pull timing or pull boost. Your part throttle knock is likely because its a leaner commanded AFR at part throttle than it is at WOT.
 

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You need to go to a colder heat range plug...
If only the colder plug was readily available, it would not be a bad idea when the time approaches for a spark plug change. However, I have looked, and except for finding the NGK colder plug number on a Russian site, I have not seen it offered at the retail level.
 

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If only the colder plug was readily available, it would not be a bad idea when the time approaches for a spark plug change. However, I have looked, and except for finding the NGK colder plug number on a Russian site, I have not seen it offered at the retail level.
I agree. I'm saying that swapping from 1 plug to another plug of the same heat range doesn't cure knock....the only way to cure knock is what I outlined.
 

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No plugs yet. Still runs like a champ.

I do have a Gates belt in my trunk. 24,850 miles on her.
I have a belt and tensioner sitting in my garage for when...not if.
 

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A tensioner may also be a good idea. What part#?
 

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A tensioner may also be a good idea. What part#?
If I remember to check when I get home, I will just post both part numbers.

When my belt frayed at 17,000 miles, Infiniti said the alignment was fine. They replaced the belt and tensioner. I spent $500 just for peace of mind and to make sure I change out both at 30,000 miles and then at every 10,000 miles after that.

It is one of the dumbest things that can go wrong and cause potential disaster...next to fuel lines, brake lines, and radiator hoses I suppose.
 

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I changed my plugs at 40K miles('17 Q50 red sport), they were in great shape, I thought maybe it was a waste. I run Chevron 94 octane here in western canada. Next time I'll wait til 60K miles. The tips on these plugs still show the shiny iridium.
Oh those are very clean plugs, are you tuned though?
 

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Call or email brisk they have one colder heat range available which does not come up on there vehicle application app. I ended up using there oe equivalent works great!
 

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Yah I'm totally stock including the the crappy dunlop tires everyone loves. Happy to say they are finally wore out, look forward to something different.
 
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