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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was at harbor freight and spotted a boost gauge in the clearance aisle so I figured why not. Everything is wired, I’ve tapped the fuses, cut and spliced the wires, and ran the vacuum hose. All that’s left is to T it off, but I’m not 100% what’s needed and I’d rather not snip the tube and find out I need reducers lol.
 

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I recommend buying the following "T" fitting used in the BOV kits. It's installed in the driver's side back corner of the intake manifold vacuum line plumbing:

CZP Silicone T-Fitting for BOV Kits, 10mm ID, 6mm Barb - Infiniti Q50 Q60 VR30DDTT 14912-5CA0C-S-T 14912-5CA0C-S-T-BK 14912-5CA0C-S-T-BL 14912-5CA0C-S-T-RD 16439-CZP16 - Concept Z Performance

Bicycle part Tool Font Auto part Titanium


I would then keep the OEM elbow - heck, you could likely sell it a forum member removing their BOV kit when de-modding their Q (most owners chuck it in the trash).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I recommend buying the following "T" fitting used in the BOV kits. It's installed in the driver's side back corner of the intake manifold vacuum line plumbing:

CZP Silicone T-Fitting for BOV Kits, 10mm ID, 6mm Barb - Infiniti Q50 Q60 VR30DDTT 14912-5CA0C-S-T 14912-5CA0C-S-T-BK 14912-5CA0C-S-T-BL 14912-5CA0C-S-T-RD 16439-CZP16 - Concept Z Performance

View attachment 111008

I would then keep the OEM elbow - heck, you could likely sell it a forum member removing their BOV kit when de-modding their Q (most owners chuck it in the trash).
That's pretty convenient it comes premade, thank you.
 

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2016 Q50SS AWD, AMS LDP, Invidia Gemini CBE, HKS BOV, Carbon Pack,
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That's pretty convenient it comes premade, thank you.
It's a PIA to fit. You have to remove the OEM hose clips on the factory rubber bent hose... I spent a long time with all sorts of pliers trying to do this and failed. Room is tight and there's all sorts of sharp things that don't help get your hand in decently. In the end I just pulled the hose and off the little bugger popped!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's a PIA to fit. You have to remove the OEM hose clips on the factory rubber bent hose... I spent a long time with all sorts of pliers trying to do this and failed. Room is tight and there's all sorts of sharp things that don't help get your hand in decently. In the end I just pulled the hose and off the little bugger popped!
Hahaha sometimes we have to Jeremy Clarkson it and just use brute force. How long would you say it took you to do?
 

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Hahaha sometimes we have to Jeremy Clarkson it and just use brute force. How long would you say it took you to do?
It would take you 10 mins to run the line - not sure how you get through the firewall though. Good luck.
 

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For now I did some backyard BS and ran it through the door because I couldn't get through the firewall. Thank you .
As scary as it sounds, I got through the firewall with a coat hanger and a knife. Never a fun process. I left a string there for the next time I have to pull something through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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As scary as it sounds, I got through the firewall with a coat hanger and a knife. Never a fun process. I left a string there for the next time I have to pull something through.
Where did you poke through? Someone on the forum mentioned the brake box a few years ago but for the life of me I couldn’t see anywhere.
 

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It would be a long run, but there’s a lot of blank real estate beneath the battery tray for drilling.
 

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Where did you poke through? Someone on the forum mentioned the brake box a few years ago but for the life of me I couldn’t see anywhere.
I made a hole in the factory grommet near the drivers wheel well, and then added a small plastic grommet that came with the wiring kit. It fit very snugly and a quick test with some soapy water showed it was watertight. If your tubing doesn't include one, look into a cheap grommet kit like this.

What you want to do is run the grommet (which is slightly smaller than the wire - to get a snug fit) along the length of cable that you will need in the opposite side. Then, cut your hole far from the wiring harness, and get a professional wire fish tool (or coat hanger) through and run until you get to the grommet. Then snug anything up until it cooperates and stays in place. Hardest part about the process is positioning yourself in the drivers wheel well.

Whatever you do though, do not simply pull out a section of the factory grommet from the firewall and run it around the factory grommet. That's a surefire way to expose the interior to water/moisture. Either go through, or find somewhere else to go through.
 

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It's a PIA to fit. You have to remove the OEM hose clips on the factory rubber bent hose... I spent a long time with all sorts of pliers trying to do this and failed. Room is tight and there's all sorts of sharp things that don't help get your hand in decently. In the end I just pulled the hose and off the little bugger popped!
Here's the pliers I bought off Amazon for when I installed the TurboSmart BOVs - easy-peasy:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Red-KWP2-P...63557227&sprefix=long+needle+,aps,187&sr=8-56

Hand tool Tool Bicycle part Line Nipper
 

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It may be too late, but an other option is to get boost is via the OBD port, using standard PID
SAE 0x0B - intake manifold absolute pressure.
I can implement this - and it is the best solution other than reverse engineering the EcuTek messages. However, JB4 users will need a boost sensor or switch.

Luckily, OBD calls via native CAN from my module are much than calling a cheaper OBD ELM knockoff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It may be too late, but an other option is to get boost is via the OBD port, using standard PID
SAE 0x0B - intake manifold absolute pressure.
My only downside for that would be cost since I’d have to buy a new gauge which costs a decent bit more. My friends got a gauge setup that’s like $300 vs my setup right now which is Gauge-$15, Wires and fuse taps-$25, Hose thing recommended here $45.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I can implement this - and it is the best solution other than reverse engineering the EcuTek messages. However, JB4 users will need a boost sensor or switch.

Luckily, OBD calls via native CAN from my module are much than calling a cheaper OBD ELM knockoff.
Where would it display the boost pressure?
 

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Where would it display the boost pressure?
I will probably build a DIY pillar multifunction gauge, but I could also see a simple iOS app doing the trick.

Most important thing is having it for logging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I recommend buying the following "T" fitting used in the BOV kits. It's installed in the driver's side back corner of the intake manifold vacuum line plumbing:

CZP Silicone T-Fitting for BOV Kits, 10mm ID, 6mm Barb - Infiniti Q50 Q60 VR30DDTT 14912-5CA0C-S-T 14912-5CA0C-S-T-BK 14912-5CA0C-S-T-BL 14912-5CA0C-S-T-RD 16439-CZP16 - Concept Z Performance

View attachment 111008

I would then keep the OEM elbow - heck, you could likely sell it a forum member removing their BOV kit when de-modding their Q (most owners chuck it in the trash).
It just arrived, do you think the needle nose pliers were necessary? I'd rather make a Home Depot run beforehand if so.
 

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It just arrived, do you think the needle nose pliers were necessary? I'd rather make a Home Depot run beforehand if so.
It's a tight squeeze back there... some extra long pinchers are needed to reach the inner clamp.
 
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