The steel brake backing plate looks like it is mounted between the splash guard and wheel hub and bearing assembly or it could be between the steering knuckle and splash guard. Not sure which. Then you route the flex ducting to wherever it can get cool air forced into it, like behind the one of the grilles perhaps? The cool air is blown on the back of the rotors. $250 is a lot of money for two plates, 4 band clamps, and 4 meters of flex hose.How is this going to work? Where is it installed?
I cant figure anything out from that picture.Seems like an overly complicated solution and a lot of money... Recall someone in the forums mounting a small shield to direct air onto the back of the rotors/calipers and getting pretty good results.
Fabricated something like below and mounted it, recall him mentioning the temps dropped by 20-30 degrees F.
View attachment 99461
It's just a little kick up plate that redirect air flowing from the underside of the car to the rotors/calipers, thus pulling hot air awayI cant figure anything out from that picture.
The solution Z1 offers is at a very reasonable price.
My original question remains...who is in need of this upgrade?
If you are racing on slicks, using good rotors, race pads and fluid and notice small surface cracks on the rotors or experience fade, I can understand.
The Z1 would only be for the front. material cost is a bit pricy for what it is, but it is also priced at what they are normally priced at. I would hope they would have detailed install instructions and be as plug and play as can be for the cost.It's just a little kick up plate that redirect air flowing from the underside of the car to the rotors/calipers, thus pulling hot air away
faster and reducing temperatures.
Below picture is from another car but does a bit better job illustrating how it works.
View attachment 99464
As for why do it? That's the wrong question to be asking, we mod cars because we want something not because we need something.
Otherwise we'd all be driving 80HP eco boxes to get to point A to B, not modding 300HP+ cars into the 500HP range. Hah
The Z1 Kit is maybe $20 in materials so anything more than $150 for all 4 corners seems like highway robbery to me,
honestly I'd probably go for a kit if it cost under that amount as there are plenty of benefits to lowering the temperature
of the brake pads/rotors even on a stock setup.
Found the original post - Rear Duct Modification for better brake & caliper cooling
Brakes!They are cheap, so in comparison to a lot of mods at the same price point people routinely do that you could apply the same logic to, those shouldn’t make much sense either then.
Brake ducts will extend the life of your pads/rotors. Even if they can “handle” the heat, being cooler in a lot of cases is better. It is still a benefit regardless.
The fact we actually make decent power and are pretty fast but also fat means our breaks are working overtime.
Is it needed for 99.9% of Q owners, probably not but so is majority of mods people do. And for only $250 it’s pretty cheap way to potentially extend the life of your breaks and keep them performing more predictable and consistently if you like to push your car.
Some people enjoy modding, wrenching, working on their car, and knowing they have something different and/or better than other people on the streets.
Whenever i decide to get the z1 2pc bbk I’ll be getting these. They are a lot cheaper than the $370 dust shields after all.
Hopefully that’s enough of a reason why for you.
I agree. Dot 4, SS lines, Z1 two piece brake rotors, Charbotec XP12 front, XP10 rear were more than adequate during my HPDE track days. No fade at all. 125 to 40 MPH at the end of the streight without much time to cool off braking before the corners in between.My question "why" has 2 reasons.
1. Q50 is not a platfirm to be tracking regularly. It is too big and heavy.
2. For 7 track days over a 2 year period, I regularly tracked standard brakes with above grade rotors, pads and brake fluid. While the brakes got hot. I never had an issue. I drove at 10/10.
My car was prepped by a shop that ran a race spec Lotus fleet for customers. They were present on one of my track days and had zero issues. The only thing we tried to dial in were tire tamperatures.
This setup from Z1 is for a track prepped car. By track prepped I dont mean race pads, coilovers, wheels and 200+ utqg tires. I can do that setup without a problem...especially with our big brakes.
It is a cool thing to show your friends.
If anyone knows of a serious Q50/Q60 that tracks regularly, I would love to see the videos...seriously and not sarcastically (is that even a word?)
What data do you have forI agree. Dot 4, SS lines, Z1 two piece brake rotors, Charbotec XP12 front, XP10 rear were more than adequate during my HPDE track days. No fade at all. 125 to 40 MPH at the end of the streight without much time to cool off braking before the corners in between.
A ton of dust washed out after each day.
A) 10 deg would have no measurable difference.What data do you have for
A. how much longer or shorter your pads and or rotors would last if they where cooler while tracking if at all?
B. How much cooler you’d need to be running them to not need to run as aggressive pads and/or upgrading to bigger rotors/bbk?
C. Would running cooler at any point on a lap have any benefits at all, or where you at perfect ideal temps the entire time?
D. Would running cooler actually have an overall negative effect at least on average?
Typical data I’ve seen of testing brake ducting is usually a solid 20%+ cooler rotor temps. Obviously many variables at play. But 20% is far from abnormal.A) 10 deg would have no measurable difference.
B) OEM pads are inadequate on the track. They fade after 5-7 stops from 120. I tryed that.
C) running 10-30 deg cooler would not make any noticable difference with the XP12/XP10's. I have Ferodo DS1.11 pads and AP Racing Radi-Cal-II BBK. The friction graph is linear from 150 deg to 700 deg. Look here: Ferodo Racing Official Website - DSUNO (Z/ZB) (the light green line on the graph 1/2 way down the page.)