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Typical data I’ve seen of testing brake ducting is usually a solid 20%+ cooler rotor temps. Obviously many variables at play. But 20% is far from abnormal.

Even the rear brake underpanel tray that that one guy made which would not be nearly as effective as a real front brake duct system saw a 10% difference.

So it’s probably more like 40-100f degree difference on a track depending on conditions, track, and driving style/ability.

Not talking oem pad but maybe a sporty street pad could be stretched with a brake duct and be adequate on the track.

or $250 brake duct paired with 1pc sloted sport street rotor/pad setup could handle some tracking with out drastically increased wear etc... and then prevents spending much more on a BBk/2pc rotor

It’s only $250, it’s not $1,000. They are pretty effective especially considering price.

Ppl with non sport upgrade need to modify dust shield or buy new ones for $370. this is a cheaper option with added benefits.

Not saying everyone should immediately go buy. But for only $250 it’s not useless for anyone/everyone.
Two piece brake rotors have cooling fins that suck air through them. Their weigh reduction and added cooling is well worth the money.

The front ducting kit ftom Z1 is kinda cool (pun intended) but the ROI is less than two piece brake rotors, and you should get track pads anyway. The cost in tires and track fees is a lot. Two piece brake rotors and track pads are about the cost of 2 days on the track.

You should probably invest in high performance brakes if your tuned and want to play anyway. Your life rides on your tires & brakes. Not the place to skimp.

I don't know if the brake cooling kit has a downside, like introducing sand and water into your brakes during your daily driving. I don't know how they mount. I'd have to look at the kit mounting.
 

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Still not covinced.
Typical data I’ve seen of testing brake ducting is usually a solid 20%+ cooler rotor temps. Obviously many variables at play. But 20% is far from abnormal.

Even the rear brake underpanel tray that that one guy made which would not be nearly as effective as a real front brake duct system saw a 10% difference.

So it’s probably more like 40-100f degree difference on a track depending on conditions, track, and driving style/ability.

Not talking oem pad but maybe a sporty street pad could be stretched with a brake duct and be adequate on the track.

or $250 brake duct paired with 1pc sloted sport street rotor/pad setup could handle some tracking with out drastically increased wear etc... and then prevents spending much more on a BBk/2pc rotor

It’s only $250, it’s not $1,000. They are pretty effective especially considering price.

Ppl with non sport upgrade need to modify dust shield or buy new ones for $370. this is a cheaper option with added benefits.

Not saying everyone should immediately go buy. But for only $250 it’s not useless for anyone/everyone.
Have you tracked a car, and if so, how many times...what sort of lap times did you lay down and at what track with what car and mods?

I am trying to understand your point of view based on what you drove and how fast.

I will start. 2013 legacy 3.6r 230whp/230wtq 3650# without driver. All suspension done and running on 275 rt615k+...Laguna Seca 1:51.

video of a complete session is in my youtube but the best there was a 1.52.

I have several videos that are hidden. I compared my best drive to Randy Probst in a porsche turbos (factory spec). I matched him for speed through all corners.

I am not a race car driver, but I came up quick in the amount of seat time I had. I am very much a novice by any measure. I dont believe I am a hot shoe.

That is the perspective from which I am speaking.

Your question reminds me a lot of a guy on the Legacy forum who was questioning my claims about a different topic...suspension.

Fortunately, he lived 1.5 hours away and we were able to meet up. Need less to say, he more than agreed in the end.

The Brake ducts are not a waste, but not needed in the Q.

That is my opinion. If you want to install them...by all means.

Please note that I am only speaking in a calm manner. Only trying to reason. I am arguing my viewpoint based on what little I have learned.

Another race shop that had a fleet of Mustang track spec cars talked me out of ducts. They said they could do it for my car, but it wouldnt be necessary.

Sorry for the rant.

I wish we were speaking in person instead of text which is so impersonal and ones tone doesnt come through.
 

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2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
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Two piece brake rotors have cooling fins that suck air through them. Their weigh reduction and added cooling is well worth the money.

The front ducting kit ftom Z1 is kinda cool (pun intended) but the ROI is less than two piece brake rotors, and you should get track pads anyway. The cost in tires and track fees is a lot. Two piece brake rotors and track pads are about the cost of 2 days on the track.

You should probably invest in high performance brakes if your tuned and want to play anyway. Your life rides on your tires & brakes. Not the place to skimp.

I don't know if the brake cooling kit has a downside, like introducing sand and water into your brakes during your daily driving. I don't know how they mount. I'd have to look at the kit mounting.
1pc have cooling veins* as well.
the weight is over rated.

even non sport can full lock at least once. Tires are more important.
with an aftermarket slotted veined rotor and some sporty street pads a good brake duct kit would definitely stretch the capabilities.


for any real tracking of course get a good bbk. But once a year, or maybe a weekend canyon carver, back road burner. BBK might be over kill especially if brake ducts can be a good stop gap.

this is pretty standard brake duct setup/routing

it replaces the dust shield and routes through fender liner to front grille into a larger duct. Can also route underneath if desired to a naca duct or reverse naca duct depending on ground clearance.

usually the only downside is not getting enough heat into a track pad that people use on the street.

99474
99475
 
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Still not covinced.

Have you tracked a car, and if so, how many times...what sort of lap times did you lay down and at what track with what car and mods?

I am trying to understand your point of view based on what you drove and how fast.

I will start. 2013 legacy 3.6r 230whp/230wtq 3650# without driver. All suspension done and running on 275 rt615k+...Laguna Seca 1:51.

video of a complete session is in my youtube but the best there was a 1.52.

I have several videos that are hidden. I compared my best drive to Randy Probst in a porsche turbos (factory spec). I matched him for speed through all corners.

I am not a race car driver, but I came up quick in the amount of seat time I had. I am very much a novice by any measure. I dont believe I am a hot shoe.

That is the perspective from which I am speaking.

Your question reminds me a lot of a guy on the Legacy forum who was questioning my claims about a different topic...suspension.

Fortunately, he lived 1.5 hours away and we were able to meet up. Need less to say, he more than agreed in the end.

The Brake ducts are not a waste, but not needed in the Q.

That is my opinion. If you want to install them...by all means.

Please note that I am only speaking in a calm manner. Only trying to reason. I am arguing my viewpoint based on what little I have learned.

Another race shop that had a fleet of Mustang track spec cars talked me out of ducts. They said they could do it for my car, but it wouldnt be necessary.

Sorry for the rant.

I wish we were speaking in person instead of text which is so impersonal and ones tone doesnt come through.
Which of my points where you trying to argue?
 

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Which of my points where you trying to argue?
only arguing my own in why I believe it is not needed in a Q50...unless it is a track prepped car...for which I would love to see a video...not to prove me wrong but for the entertainment value.
 

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only arguing my own in why I believe it is not needed in a Q50...unless it is a track prepped car...for which I would love to see a video...not to prove me wrong but for the entertainment value.
Car makes a lot of power + is incredibly heavy = lots of stress on brakes, resulting in lots of heat.

It is well studied with an abundance of data showing brake ducts can lower rotor temps 20%+ in “high stress” situation IE tracking.

are you disputing a 20%+ reduction in rotor temps is unrealistic?

or a 20%+ reduction in rotor temps is not beneficial?
 

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Car makes a lot of power + is incredibly heavy = lots of stress on brakes, resulting in lots of heat.

It is well studied with an abundance of data showing brake ducts can lower rotor temps 20%+ in “high stress” situation IE tracking.

are you disputing a 20%+ reduction in rotor temps is unrealistic?

or a 20%+ reduction in rotor temps is not beneficial?
I am arguing that it is not needed on a street car that occasionally sees track days.

Like a big carbon fiber wing for downfoce.
 

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I am arguing that it is not needed on a street car that occasionally sees track days.

Like a big carbon fiber wing for downfoce.
20%+ cooler rotors is a substantial number. And for only $250.That’s a good ratio.

you could even easily drill out your dust plate and make the kit for about $75, if the extra $175 for the plates was too steep.

much better bang for buck than a carbon driveshaft that I’d argue even a track car would be hard pressed to justify that, let alone especially street.
 

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20%+ cooler rotors is a substantial number. And for only $250.That’s a good ratio.

you could even easily drill out your dust plate and make the kit for about $75, if the extra $175 for the plates was too steep.

much better bang for buck than a carbon driveshaft that I’d argue even a track car would be hard pressed to justify that, let alone especially street.
I dont have any data to compare a CF driveshaft to brake cooling. I am sure you dont either.

But, I would argue, the driveshaft will get you through a lap faster than brake cooling...especially when your brakes are not overheating.

Go to a track day. Talk to several racers, show them your car and ask them if the next mod should be a CF driveshaft or brake cooling to reduce your lap times.

If you are already using good rotors, race pads and proper brake fluid, they may ask you if your braking is consistent. And if that is fine, then are you having problems with your rotors or pads? If not, then you have your answer.

Before the CF driveshaft, to drop lap times, all of the suspesnion work would be done. Camber/toe would be dialed in based on tire temps.

I would have a transmission cooler before a CF driveshaft (for track use). I went ahead and got my driveshaft because it was available and it would help and I wasnt planning on making the Q a track car.

My rotors were getting tiny surface cracks from all the heat. That was not enough to hurt my rotors, but enough for me to start thinking about cooling.

Maybe I will close with this. For any car, the best way to know what is needed next is to take it to the track and find the weak link.

That is the last of my argument.
 

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I dont have any data to compare a CF driveshaft to brake cooling. I am sure you dont either.

But, I would argue, the driveshaft will get you through a lap faster than brake cooling...especially when your brakes are not overheating.

Go to a track day. Talk to several racers, show them your car and ask them if the next mod should be a CF driveshaft or brake cooling to reduce your lap times.

If you are already using good rotors, race pads and proper brake fluid, they may ask you if your braking is consistent. And if that is fine, then are you having problems with your rotors or pads? If not, then you have your answer.

Before the CF driveshaft, to drop lap times, all of the suspesnion work would be done. Camber/toe would be dialed in based on tire temps.

I would have a transmission cooler before a CF driveshaft (for track use). I went ahead and got my driveshaft because it was available and it would help and I wasnt planning on making the Q a track car.

My rotors were getting tiny surface cracks from all the heat. That was not enough to hurt my rotors, but enough for me to start thinking about cooling.

Maybe I will close with this. For any car, the best way to know what is needed next is to take it to the track and find the weak link.

That is the last of my argument.
Compare them in what way?
the benefit of 20% cooler rotors vs the benefit of the equivalent to less than a 1/4whp of drivetrain loss removed from the drivetrain from the weight reduction of a CF driveshaft?

two different metrics to compare. But price being equal ill take 20% cooler rotors. Although in this case its $250 vs $1500. which makes it that much more clear who the winner is.

The driveshaft is doing almost nothing at all and compared to the price it’s horrible ROI. It removes a very minor amount of slop similar to other much cheaper options like engine mounts, trans mount, rear diff collars, or subframe inserts. And for a street car that minimal amount of slop reduction isn’t going to make any difference.
 

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I like the idea of collecting ambient air from the front of the car and directing it to hot parts using corrugated vacuum tubing, but brakes would be wasted on most of us. So how about directing air to the intercoolers or even the turbos themselves? I have done this on my Maxima but not yet on the Q50. On the Maxima, I direct air to the pancake air filter on the super charger, to the super charger, and to the water to air aftercooler. I'd like to explore this on the Q50. Looks like this Miata is directing air to the brakes but also to what looks like an oil cooler.



99512
 

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Nice!
 
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I like the idea of collecting ambient air from the front of the car and directing it to hot parts using corrugated vacuum tubing, but brakes would be wasted on most of us. So how about directing air to the intercoolers or even the turbos themselves? I have done this on my Maxima but not yet on the Q50. On the Maxima, I direct air to the pancake air filter on the super charger, to the super charger, and to the water to air aftercooler. I'd like to explore this on the Q50. Looks like this Miata is directing air to the brakes but also to what looks like an oil cooler.
Aye Nissan can do a lot better job redirecting the air around their cars to better cool key components in general, I'm hoping they make better use of it for the FM platform
when they upgrade it with the Z/Redesigned Q50/60.
 
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2014 Infiniti Q50S 6MT RWD
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I'll use my temp gun next track day for all the nay sayers lol. Then I'll throw on the ducting and shoot it with the gun after a full hot session. Then we will see who's the dummy hehe. Also I do sub 1:30 in my Q at Streets of Willow for anyone who might want to pick apart my future claims.

Setting reminder to come back with an update.
 

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I'll use my temp gun next track day for all the nay sayers lol. Then I'll throw on the ducting and shoot it with the gun after a full hot session. Then we will see who's the dummy hehe. Also I do sub 1:30 in my Q at Streets of Willow for anyone who might want to pick apart my future claims.

Setting reminder to come back with an update.
Great! Exciting! Brake ducting is beyond proven. But will be great getting even more data especially specific to this platform.

what brake ducting do you have?
 

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I'll use my temp gun next track day for all the nay sayers lol. Then I'll throw on the ducting and shoot it with the gun after a full hot session. Then we will see who's the dummy hehe. Also I do sub 1:30 in my Q at Streets of Willow for anyone who might want to pick apart my future claims.

Setting reminder to come back with an update.
hpde vids?

Harrys lap timer perhaps.

Weight of car...mods...tires.
 

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2014 Infiniti Q50S 6MT RWD
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hpde vids?

Harrys lap timer perhaps.

Weight of car...mods...tires.
Only have one old video of the car stock for baseline time before I ripped everything apart last year. Even then I pulled a 1:37 on a 103f day with traffic. I do have slips for that if anyone wants to call my bluff lol.

My car is 6MT, running RT660s on HKS coilovers, Hotchkis sways front and rear. Full LCA/UCA upgrades front and rear as well as subframe collars and all bushings and mounts replaced with poly and a Z1 LSD upgrade. Tuned on Ecutek by Seb @ Specialty Z.

Saying the car is awesome would be an understatement.
 

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Only have one old video of the car stock for baseline time before I ripped everything apart last year. Even then I pulled a 1:37 on a 103f day with traffic. I do have slips for that if anyone wants to call my bluff lol.

My car is 6MT, running RT660s on HKS coilovers, Hotchkis sways front and rear. Full LCA/UCA upgrades front and rear as well as subframe collars and all bushings and mounts replaced with poly and a Z1 LSD upgrade. Tuned on Ecutek by Seb @ Specialty Z.

Saying the car is awesome would be an understatement.
Oh and the 1:37 was on Bridgestone runflats lol.
 

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Would love to see some vids. Make sure to record some next time you run a track day again and share with us!
 
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