[Pillboy]

If the washer fluid level is low, you won't get a low washer level warning for 3 minutes after turning on the ignition. Since you've filled the reservoir and you're still getting a low-level alert, I'd say your level switch is faulty. It's located on the bottom of the reservoir, but you'll have to remove the driver's side front fender protector to access the switch.

It's a float-type switch so I'd check to make sure the float is freely moving as it has a small magnet in the float that pulls in a reed switch when the level gets low. If it is moving properly, then you might check the continuity of the switch by connecting a multimeter to the switch and tilting the switch back and forth to engage the magnet on the reed switch.

I thought when we discussed this a few years back it was determined that the type of washer fluid affected the level sensor? Or has it since been determined that the level sensor is a float in all model years and the type of fluid was a red herring?

 

[Pillboy]

I thought we came to the conclusion that there was only a float-type level sensor in that thread. If so, then fluid conductivity isn't relevant. If there is also a conductivity type level sensor available, then it could be possible that certain washer fluids may not have sufficient conductivity to work with the sensor. I don't think that's the case though.

I must have missed the epilogue.

 

[Pillboy]

Did you guys read the thread that was linked in post 3 above? That thread implies it is not a float type level switch and the type of fluid used seems to matter.

Do not cast aspersions upon the great wizard.

 

[Pillboy]

It is a float-type sensor, easy to reach from under the car if you remove a small section of fender well lining. You will immediately see it underneath when you do.
A cheap part... (about $15) and it will certainly cost far less to do it yourself than a dealer (about $250/hr).
You do not need a video or multiple pics. Couldn't be easier. It's a nit.
Points straight down at the bottom of the reservoir. Use a strong set of medium-size needle nose pliers and pull straight down. It part gets loose inside the tank, you can maneuver it out with your finger.
Here's that it looks like: View attachment 132235 View attachment 132236

So you're saying you simply remove the electrical connector, then grasp the part of the float exposed at the bottom exterior of the reservoir with a pliers, and just yank it straight down? That would mean it is a snap-fit, or friction fit with a rubber gasket that prevents the washer fluid from leaking out. And I expect installation of the new one is to shove it home firmly with your hand into the hole in the bottom of the reservoir until it is properly seated?