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Z1 Motorsports Urethane Main Differential Bushing Install

2.1K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  Dago_Japan  
#1 · (Edited)
Preface
  • Z1 Motorsports sells a tool to press the OEM bushing out but strongly advises against it as there's a risk of damaging the subframe. The only option the dealership offers is to change the entire subframe. The total cost for parts and labor is just under $4k.

  • If you are interested in upgrading your rear differential bushing I strongly advise to purchase Z1's Rear Drivetrain Support Kit and install all the parts at the same time. The parts included are a phenomenal upgrade for the money and give the car a much sportier feel with a negligible increase in NVH. That is the only reason I was hesitant to perform these upgrades and it's simply not the case.

  • As stated in Z1's instructions, it is not advisable for a novice to attempt this install.

WARNING: Make sure to have a fire extinguisher available. The rubber part of the rear main differential bushing and the fluid inside it are flammable.

Freeze the large differential bushing sleeves overnight before installation. This will allow the material to contract and ease the installation process. Also, put some general purpose automotive grease on the subframe to assist with the install.

Follow Z1's instructions up to step 5. Their instructions to utilize a reciprocating saw for removal of the bushing make the process much more difficult. It's almost impossible to make a hole in the bushing big enough for the blade to fit through. Also, it's difficult to make the horizontal cut at the top of the bushing to remove it as clearances are tight. The drill and torch are the safest, easiest and fastest option.

Instructions for Removing the Rear Differential Bushing
  1. Drill completely through the rubber in the main rear differential bushing as many times as possible
  2. Use the torch to further weaken the rubber in the rear differential bushing until the center is loose
  3. Use the pry bar to remove the metal center of the differential bushing
  4. Use the screwdriver and rubber mallet to knock the main rear subframe bushing ring out of the subframe towards the front of the car. The best place to hit it is between the 6 and 8 o'clock cuts you just made
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#2 ·
Tools Required to remove the rear main differential bushing
View attachment 131636
WARNING: Make sure to have a fire extinguisher available. The rubber part of the rear main differential bushing and the fluid inside it is flammable.

Freeze the large differential bushing sleeves overnight before installation. This will allow the material to contract and ease the installation process. Also, put some general purpose automotive grease on the subframe to assist with the install.

Follow Z1's instructions up to step 5. Their instructions to utilize a reciprocating saw for removal of the bushing make the process much more difficult. It's almost impossible to make a hole in the bushing big enough for the blade to fit through. Also, it's difficult to make the horizontal cut at the top of the bushing to remove it as clearances are tight. The drill and torch are the safest, easiest and fastest option.

Instructions for Removing the Rear Differential Bushing
  1. Drill completely through the rubber in the main rear differential bushing as many times as possible
  2. Use the torch to further weaken the rubber in the rear differential bushing until the center is loose
  3. Use the pry bar to remove the metal center of the differential bushing
  4. Use a reciprocating saw with a Diablo bi-metal blade to cut almost all the way through the metal ring of the bushing at 6 o’clock and 8 o’clock. Take care not to cut the subframe
  5. Use the screwdriver and rubber mallet to knock the main rear subframe bushing ring out of the subframe towards the front of the car
  6. Continue to step 11 in Z1’s instructions
There will be smoke, there will be violence. 😄
 
#3 ·
Hey Kraken,

How easy, or hard, would you say it is to drop the differential and crack it open? I'm thinking I want to change the final drive ratio and add a Z1 or Wavetrac LSD inside. Problem for me is, I don't have access to a sturdy work bench or vise or any proper machine shop tools. I also only have jack stands. I can figure out how to work a dial indicator no problem, but if I can't even open anything up, then oh well.
 
owns 2018 Infiniti Q50 Luxe
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#4 ·
I didn't have any of that fancy stuff either and do all my work on jack stands in parking garages. The bear of the task is the bolts that hold the rear cover (part 16) on. Without a vice it's a bit tricky but I sat on the ground (use a towel or moving blanket to keep from damaging the differential) and kept it between my knees to tighten them (103 ft/lbs torque spec). I made a write-up here. Feel free to ask any questions and I'll assist. I wouldn't say it's that difficult. Just time consuming if you've never done it before. Like pretty much everything else. Also, @Maximus400 specified that the Wavetrac performs better than the TC unit. He has one and I'd like to drive it and see for myself. No problems with the TC unit at all to date and I've had mine for almost 1.5 years. If you go that route I highly suggest you purchase Z1's rear drivetrain support kit and install everything at the same time.
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#5 ·
I can build you one and ship to you. Where are you located?
 
owns 2017 Infiniti Q60 AWD Red Sport
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#6 ·
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#8 ·
how about the feedback post install, how does it feel, how do you like it
 
#9 ·
I took the car out for a test cruise late last night but didn't really do any spirited driving. Car is currently in for paint correction and full PPF so I'll take a drive once I get her back and let you all know.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I would not suggest it unless your OEM bushing is leaking. The subframe bushing collars and differential brace work nicely, are cheap, and are easy to install. This one is a pain in the @$$, but it adds to the rigidity of the rear. If I had known what I posted here prior it would've saved me a lot of time and effort. It came out very easily once I got the torch on it, however getting the new one in was a PITA. Follow the instructions and it's a 1 day job.
 
#12 ·
You Rock hard for doing that in the parking lot, seriously no joke. And for those that look at this as a whole, all three bushings don't have to be installed at once. The 2 differential bushings can be installed and you could always wait for the bigger ironman bushing.
Hey, bushing where your comfortable putting them adds for a better Ride. Plus I contacted someone at Z1 and asked if that was alright to do... they confirmed it was.