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2014-15 Q50 3.7 Valve Body Replacement / P0720 Code

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#1 ·
**Please note, I've attached this post, in PDF format to this post, as the steps are numbered on the attached PDF, but not on the post.

Here is a Quick write up on replacing the Valve body on the 2014-2016 Q50 with the VQ37VHR Motor & RE7R01A Transmission. The P0720 is a TCM short code, and usually is not caused by the output speed sensor (However, this does not mean it will always be the TCM. See NHTSA.GOV link below) This a very common issue with these transmissions.
The project seems complicated, but it is honestly not that bad, If you have ever replaced parts like an alternator, compressor, ECT. But please, for your own sake, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS, IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH WORKING ON YOUR CAR!!! You are dealing with very fragile equipment and missing a step can cause some major issues, and not cheap ones!!!
With that out of the way, if you follow the provided steps & PLEASE ALSO use the FSM linked below, you should not miss anything.
DISCLAIMER, I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC. However, with the proper tools, and enough research, you should be able to do it as well
I am going to say it a lot, and I mean it. USE THE FSM!!!!!
FSM For Transmission: Factory Service Manuals - NICOclub
  • Key Pages:
  • TM-121 & TM-122 (Diagnosis, Skip over sensor replacement)
  • TM-219 – TM-222 (Valve body replacement)
Diagnosis:

Items Needed:
  • New/Refurb/Used Valve Body
  • Purchased mine from Ebay. It was “Rebuilt” Test drove 100 Miles, so far so good. Transmission shifts smoothly, and I haven’t had a issue yet. Seller offers 1 Year Warranty Here’s the link: Rebuilt RE7R01A JR710E JR711 Valve Body W/Solenoids/TCM 14UP Infinity Q50 | eBay
  • 10 QTS of Nissan Matic S (999MP-MTS00P) YOU MUST USE OEM FULID
    • I found that Z1 Motorsports has it for the cheapest.
    • Buy one or two extra just incase you spill a bottle or something
  • New Drain Bolt – Part Number: 31377-31X06
  • New Fill Bolt – 31361-1XJ0A
  • Oil Pan Gasket* – Part Number: 31397-1XJ0A
    • *Yes, you need this. Replace it.
  • Charge Pipe – CTA Tools 7425 ATF Filler Adapter
  • Size 5 Hex Bit (NOT TORX) – For fill bolt
  • Torque wrench – Needs to be able to read as low as 5 ft lbs
  • 19 MM Socket – For Drain Bolt
  • 10 MM Socket – For everything else
  • Fluid Transfer Pump – Harbor Freight
  • 4 Jack Stands & a Jack / or a lift (Car level will need to be even)
  • 2 people HIGHLY recommended

There are a lot of diagrams/pictures listed in the FSM, wherever you see “See FSM for explanation” below, you will need to refer to the image for that step.
Steps (Please note, most of this is transferred over from the FSM, However, will place tips in between that may help. PLEASE REFER TO FSM, AS THERE ARE IMAGES THAT WILL HELP YOU TREMENDOUSLY) :
  • Remove rear engine cover. Refer to EXT-35, "FLOOR UNDER COVER: Removal and Installation".
  • Drain ATF through drain plug. (You can expect to see 7 QTS Before dripping, there is about 2 more qts coming, after dropping the pan. This is a messy process!
  • Remove exhaust mounting bracket with power tool. Refer to EX-5, "Exploded View".
  • Disconnect heated oxygen sensor 2 connectors. (No need to remove the sensors, just unplug)
  • Remove heated oxygen sensor 2 harness from clips .
  • Remove bracket from transmission assembly. Refer to TM242, "2WD : Exploded View" (2WD), TM-245, "AWD : Exploded View" (AWD).
  • Remove clips. (See FSM for explanation)
  • Remove oil pan and oil pan gasket. (See FSM for explanation)
  • Remove magnets from oil pan. Clean magnets and oil pan. (See FSM for explanation)
  • Remove snap ring from joint connector. IMPORTANT (See FSM for explanation)
  • Push joint connector. (You will need to push this clip into the transmission. You may not be able to push it in all the way in, maybe just about ½ inch in) (See FSM for explanation)
  • Disconnect output speed sensor connector. (See FSM for explanation)
    • CAUTION: Be careful not to damage connector.
  • Disengage terminal clip. (See FSM for explanation)
  • Remove bolts and clip from the control valve & TCM.
    • BOLT SIZES ARE DIFFERENT. Follow the FSM and remove one set of bolts at a time. The FSM (Page TM-220) Shows you which ones are different, and label them by letter.
    • *HEADS UP! * The bolts themselves have lettering & numbering on them. IGNORE THIS!!!! FOLLOW FSM!!!!
    • Stay organized. For example, remove the “A” Bolts, then place them in a ziplock bag labeled “A”. Then do the same for B, C, D & E, being sure to label the baggies correctly. This will help you a lot
    • There will be a total of 15 bolts, you do not need to remove the filter.
  • Slowly Remove the control valve & TCM from transmission case. The same Joint connector mentioned in step 11 will need to be pushed in, while you are dropping the Valve body
  • Remove joint connector from the control valve & TCM using a flat-bladed screwdriver
  • Disconnect TCM harness connector
BEFORE INSTALLING YOUR NEW VALVE BODY, YOU MAY NEED TO TRANSFER OVER A FEW PARTS
Just lay both valve bodies side by side, TCM & Solenoids facing up, you’ll see what is different, here are the pieces :
  • The tannish plastic solenoids cover.
  • The TCM harness mentioned in Step 17.
  • The bracket that the Joint connector is mounted to (Mentioned in step 15)

Installation (The fun part…)
Note the following and install in the reverse order of removal.
  • Start to position the valve body, refer to the tips below
CAUTION:
  • Be careful not to damage connector when installing any connector.
  • Never reuse joint connector. (I did….)
  • Apply ATF to O-ring of joint connector.
  • Never reuse drain plug and drain plug gasket. In addition, install new drain plug and drain plug gasket after adjustment of A/T fluid filling.
Refer to the following when installing the control valve & TCM to transmission case.
CAUTION:
  • Make sure that input speed sensor securely installs input speed sensor holes .
  • Hang down output speed sensor harness toward outside so as not to disturb installation of the control valve & TCM.
  • Adjust joint connector of the control valve & TCM to terminal hole of transmission case.
  • Assemble it so that manual valve cutout is engaged with manual plate projection.
At this point, you should be trying to put your new Valve body in. Please refer to some of my tips
  • The manual plate projection should have something that almost looks like a hook on the top of it. This may get in your way of mounting the valve body. It will hit the top of the valve body, preventing it from mounting flush. When installing, get the joint connector lined up first. Then tilt the valve body to the right a bit (The side that the manual projection plate is on) and keep moving it around until the little hook looking thing, goes under the valve body. Make sure that the cutout valve and projection plates are aligned correctly
  • Install bolts and clip to the control valve & TCM. (See FSM for explanation)
  • Tighten E Bolt to the specified torque before tightening the other than bolts. 5.8 FT LBS / 70 IN LBS / 7.9 NM (See FSM for explanation)
  • Tighten the other bolts one letter at a time. All bolts will need to be tightened to 5.8 FT LBS / 70 IN LBS / 7.9 NM (See FSM for explanation)

Installing Oil Pan
CAUTION:
  • Clean foreign materials (gear wear particles) that adhere on the inside of the oil pan and on the magnet, and then assembly.
  • Completely remove all moisture, oil and old gasket, etc. from oil pan gasket mounting surface of transmission case and oil pan.
  • Never reuse oil pan gasket and oil pan mounting bolts.
  • Install oil pan gasket in the direction to align hole position.
  • Tighten the oil pan mounting bolts to the specified torque in the numerical order as shown in the figure after temporarily tightening them. (See FSM for explanation)
  • Hand tighten all bolts first, then torque them down to 5.8 FT LBS / 70 IN LBS / 7.9 NM (See FSM for explanation)


Great, you have made it this far! Now it is time to add the fluid. See TM-204 – TM-207. I will literally be copying and pasting this part of the FMS here. This is written out every well, please follow this step by step and DO NOT skip a step here (However, we will be skipping the first few steps, as there is no fluid in the pan, so there is no need to drain an empty pan. Skip to step 2, part E)
CAUTION:
  • Use only recommended ATF. Never mix with other ATF. Using ATF other than recommended ATF will cause deterioration in drivability and A/T durability, and may damage the A/T, which is not covered by the INFINITI new vehicle limited warranty.
  • When filling ATF, be careful not to scatter heat generating parts such as exhaust.
E. Remove overflow plug from oil pan.
F. Install the charging pipe (A) to the overflow plug hole. (Hand Tight)
G. Install the bucket pump hose (B) to the charging pipe.

CAUTION:
  • Insert the bucket pump hose all the way to the end of the charging pipe.
H. Fill approximately 3 liters (3-1/8 US qt, 2-5/8 lmp qt) of the ATF.
I. Remove the bucket pump hose to remove the charging pipe, and then temporarily tighten the overflow plug to the oil pan.
  • CAUTION: Quickly perform the procedure to avoid ATF leakage from the oil pan.
J. Lift down the vehicle. Or just sit in it, if it’s on stands.
K. Start the engine and wait for approximately 3 minutes.
L. Stop the engine.
3. Step 3
a. Repeat “Step 2”.
b. After repeating step to, move to step 4.
4. Final Step (You do not need to lower and lift the car every time, unless if you’re using an actual lift. Also, don’t worry about using CONSULT to check ATF temp. Just let the car run for 3 minutes at a time, after pumping in the transmission fluid.
a. Use CONSULT to check that the ATF temperature is 40°C (104°F) or less.
b. Lift up the vehicle.
c. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan, and then drain the ATF.
d. When the ATF starts to drip, tighten the drain plug to the oil pan to the specified torque. Refer to TM-218, "Exploded View". TORQUE TO 25 FT LBS
  • CAUTION: Never reuse drain plug and drain plug gasket.
e. Remove overflow plug from oil pan.
f. Install the charging pipe (A) to the overflow plug hole.
  • CAUTION: Tighten the charging pipe by hand.
g. Install the bucket pump hose (B) to the charging pipe.
  • CAUTION: Insert the bucket pump hose all the way to the end of the charging pipe.
h. Fill approximately 3 liters (3-1/8 US qt, 2-5/8 lmp qt) of the ATF.
i. Remove the bucket pump hose to remove the charging pipe, and then temporarily tighten the overflow plug to the oil pan.
  • CAUTION: Quickly perform the procedure to avoid ATF leakage from the oil pan.
j. Lift down the vehicle.
k. Start the engine.
l. Make the ATF temperature approximately 40°C (104°F). NOTE: The ATF level is greatly affected by the temperature. Always check the ATF temperature on “ATF TEMP 1” of “Data Monitor” using CONSULT.
m. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake.
n. Shift the selector lever through each gear position. Leave selector lever in “P” position.
o. Lift up the vehicle when the ATF temperature reaches 40°C (104°F) and remove the overflow plug from the oil pan.
p. When the ATF starts to drip, tighten the overflow plug to the oil pan to the specified torque. Refer to TM218, "Exploded View". Torque to 9 FT LBS
  • CAUTION: Never reuse overflow plug.


You’re all done. I really hope this helps you. Good Luck!
 

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#4 ·
Just got my car back yesterday from having the valve body replaced in my 2014. It ended up being in the shop for over 2 months with the part on backorder. Was told there were over 750 valve bodies on backorder. Ended up costing $2400 parts and labor to have it fixed.
 
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#9 ·
Hi, I have a big problem with my hybrid Q50S. On October 29, the car stopped working, the gasoline engine stopped and the electric motor was barely traveling at 5 km per hour. The mechanic told me that it was the Module (TCM) and the speed sensor, we bought it from a supplier in California but the car does not recognize the module if it recognizes the speed sensor. The seller sent us another module and the car if he recognizes it but it does not run on a gasoline engine either. I've been researching and apparently the modules being sold are for Q50 engines and not Q50S Hybrid engines. Please, if anyone knows if it is possible to change the module for hybrids, I would appreciate it and the contact where to buy it. Dealer suggests transmission replacement but it's a lot of money
Thank you
 
#15 ·
Is it possible to reset or replace the TCM only? I am getting code P0720 and P0500. The video and comments at the video linked below seem to indicate a Valve Body replacement will resolve the issue, but this is an expensive repair.


I find it hard to believe the issue is with the Valve Body itself, but I am planning to open the pan and get a look at fluid and see if there are any metal shavings/burning smell/etc to get a better idea on what's happening. I will also use a multimeter to test the input and output speed sensors to confirm if those work.

Assuming the multimeter indicates the sensors are responding, is there any possibility to replace the TCM while keeping the existing Valve Body?
 
#16 ·
IMHO, that Youtube guy doesn't know what he's talking about.

Image

Image

I would say the most likely cause is the transmission's output speed sensor, although there are other causes as you can see. Accessing the output speed sensor requires separating the transmission rear extension from the transmission assembly. This requires removing the rear engine cover, a portion of the exhaust, separating the propeller shaft assembly, draining the ATF, and removing the ATF oil pan, before separating the rear extension. This is a major job to tackle on your own unless you've worked on transmissions before.

#9 is the output speed sensor. You can't test it without opening up the transmission so if you get that far, you might as well replace the sensor anyway.

Image
 
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#17 · (Edited)
Huge thanks to @Govin.R for such an amazing and detailed write up. I was terrified at the prospect of doing it myself (or paying someone to do it). The info provided definitely gave me the confidence to tackle the job. It wasn't terrible if you are decently handy and have the tools. It took me about $700 in parts and about 6.5 hours in time (mostly because I took my time to make sure everything was correctly done). I know saved at least $2k by DIY. And as he says, READ THE FSM!

Its definitely not a sensor issue. Replace the valve body if you have the codes and symptoms. Even Infiniti themselves say to replace valve body instead of the sensor (see the Infiniti SB linked in the initial post).

The only thing I will add in support is some additional parts and part numbers not included in the initial post that the FSM recommends to replace when doing the job. I included the P/N for a new Valve Body Assy (~$1200-$1700) in case someone isn't comfortable with a refurb valve body.

Also a 14mm socket is needed for removing the Rear Cover, Exhaust Bracket, and Transmission Bracket. The metal filter/screen (with the rectangular opening on the bottom of valve body) will also likely need to be transferred over to the new TCM as well. A decent OBD scanner that can read live transmission data would come in handy too if you want to be a stickler about the temps. On the last fluid fill step for my car, it definitely took longer than 3 min to reach the 40 degree ATF temp.


PartP/NQTY
Drain Plug Washer11026-JA00A
11026-01M02 (Alt)		1
Oil Pan Bolts31377-41X6024
Joint Connector24361-90X001
Valve Body Assy W/ TCM 31705-X132B
31705-X985B (Alt)		1



Image
Image
Image
 
#18 ·
Pete624 said:
Huge thanks to @Govin.R for such an amazing and detailed write up. I was terrified at the prospect of doing it myself (or paying someone to do it). The info provided definitely gave me the confidence to tackle the job. It wasn't terrible if you are decently handy and have the tools. It took me about $700 in parts and about 6.5 hours in time (mostly because I took my time to make sure everything was correctly done). I know saved at least $2k by DIY. And as he says, READ THE FSM!

Its definitely not a sensor issue. Replace the valve body if you have the codes and symptoms. Even Infiniti themselves say to replace valve body instead of the sensor (see the Infiniti SB linked in the initial post).

The only thing I will add in support is some additional parts and part numbers not included in the initial post that the FSM recommends to replace when doing the job. I included the P/N for a new Valve Body Assy (~$1200-$1700) in case someone isn't comfortable with a refurb valve body.

Also a 14mm socket is needed for removing the Rear Cover, Exhaust Bracket, and Transmission Bracket. The metal filter/screen (with the rectangular opening on the bottom of valve body) will also likely need to be transferred over to the new TCM as well. A decent OBD scanner that can read live transmission data would come in handy too if you want to be a stickler about the temps. On the last fluid fill step for my car, it definitely took longer than 3 min to reach the 40 degree ATF temp.


PartP/NQTY
Drain Plug Washer11026-JA00A
11026-01M02 (Alt)		1
Oil Pan Bolts31377-41X6024
Joint Connector24361-90X001
Valve Body Assy W/ TCM31705-X132B
31705-X985B (Alt)		1



View attachment 105782 View attachment 105783 View attachment 105784
Click to expand...
Glad to see you solved your problem. To be accurate, that TSB is for 2014-2015 Q50's with the VQ37VHR engine. It does not include MY 2016 as your thread title indicated since it has the VR30 engine. A P0720 DTC for a VR30 doesn't necessary mean you can rule out a bad output speed sensor and go straight to replacing the TCM like in this case.
 
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K
#24 · (Edited)
Threw a P0720 code, had the shifting symptoms, and decided to knock this out myself. I purchased everything new from Infiniti and was told the valve body assembly was plug n play. Took 1 day for disassembly and installation using the instructions from the OP and using the FSM. Very straight forward install, easier than I thought to be honest, but definitely not for someone who isn't mechanically inclined. Just got back from taking it for city and freeway driving, everything shifts smooth and no engine lights.

2015 Infiniti Q50 3.7L

New Genuine OEM Parts:
(1) 31705-X132B Valve Assembly
(1) 11026-JA00A Washer
(1) 31377-31X06 Drain Plug
(1) 31397-1XJ0A Gasket
(1) 31361-1XJ0A Bolt
(24) 31377-41X60 Bolt
(8) 999MP-MAT00S Matic S Transmission Oil

Total Cost w/ Tax - $1740

Also, CTA Tools 7425 ATF Filler Adapter on Amazon - $20
 
#27 ·
Kobi Addiction said:
Threw a P0720 code, had the shifting symptoms, and decided to knock this out myself. I purchased everything new from Infiniti and was told the valve body assembly was plug n play. Took 1 day for disassembly and installation using the instructions from the OP and using the FSM. Very straight forward install, easier than I thought to be honest, but definitely not for someone who isn't mechanically inclined. Just got back from taking it for city and freeway driving, everything shifts smooth and no engine lights.

2015 Infiniti Q50 3.7L

New Genuine OEM Parts:
(1) 31705-X132B Valve Assembly
(1) 11026-JA00A Washer
(1) 31377-31X06 Drain Plug
(1) 31397-1XJ0A Gasket
(1) 31361-1XJ0A Bolt
(24) 31377-41X60 Bolt
(8) 999MP-MAT00S Matic S Transmission Oil

Total Cost w/ Tax - $1740
Click to expand...
thank you for letting us know the part numbers i am looking forward to do this myself located in Maryland..
2) what does "OP" mean?
3) do you have pictures of the valve body old or new . or any pictures of the job
 
#33 ·
what I just noticed you have a black adapter sticking up. Next to the 3 solenoids ?is Infiniti’s don’t have this green connector harness pictures below :
Image


now is that harness ^ removable ? Transferable to a refurb valve body ?

2) what pump did you use With the CAT adapter charge pipe? I see this “Attwood 11891D7 Gear Lube Pump” does this work?
 
K
#35 ·
cruz196 said:
what I just noticed you have a black adapter sticking up. Next to the 3 solenoids ?is Infiniti’s don’t have this green connector harness pictures below : View attachment 109770

now is that harness ^ removable ? Transferable to a refurb valve body ?

2) what pump did you use With the CAT adapter charge pipe? I see this “Attwood 11891D7 Gear Lube Pump” does this work?
Click to expand...
Its the joint connector, you should be able to disconnect and swap over just fine.

You just need a standard fluid transfer pump. I grabbed mine off the shelf from Autozone.
 
#34 ·
what I just noticed you have a black adapter sticking up. Next to the 3 solenoids ?is Infiniti’s don’t have this green connector harness pictures below : View attachment 109770

now is that harness ^ removable ? Transferable to a refurb valve body ?

2) what pump did you use With the CAT adapter charge pipe? I see this “Attwood 11891D7 Gear Lube Pump” does this work?
what I just noticed you have a black adapter sticking up. Next to the 3 solenoids ?is Infiniti’s don’t have this green connector harness pictures below :

Image



now is that harness ^ removable ? Transferable to a refurb valve body ?

2) what pump did you use With the CAT adapter charge pipe? I see this “Attwood 11891D7 Gear Lube Pump” does this work?
 
R
#36 ·
You guys that have done this, did you just jack up the front & rear and use jack stands? I have two ramps but doubt they would get the front high enough to work under (I have used ‘em for my trucks and suv’s when changing oil, trans fluid, transfer case fluid, etc.). Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

I would like a Kwik-Lift or a QuickJack but no time to get ‘em now. We handed the wife’s Q50 down to my youngest last year, and it just $hit the bed - Infiniti/Nissan should be ashamed of themselves on this problem.
 
R
#38 ·
Kobi Addiction said:
I used 4 jack stands, one on each corner to get it leveled in the air. This will help tremendously when preforming the trans fluid re-filling procedure.

View attachment 109915
Click to expand...
Thanks for the pic! Looks like really tight quarters… I’m not thinking that would give me much room to work (5’10, 200lbs - athletic/stocky with an extra 15lbs… haha).
 
R
#39 · (Edited)
I should have added before - thank you very much to Govin.R and Kobi Addiction (and everyone else) for this post (parts list, detailed instructions, etc)!

Well, been a busy couple of days researching! I ended up finding a used Kwik-Lift for this job (and subsequently for any maintenance, mods, etc, on my ‘17 Camaro SS). I had been considering buy a set of the QuickJacks from Costco when they are on sale, but think I personally will be happier with this setup (Not my pics) -

Image


Image
 
#40 ·
RCF said:
I should have added before - thank you very much to Govin.R and Kobi Addiction (and everyone else) for this post (parts list, detailed instructions, etc)!

Well, been a busy couple of days researching! I ended up finding a used Kwik-Lift for this job (and subsequently for any maintenance, mods, etc, on my ‘17 Camaro SS). I had been considering buy a set of the QuickJacks from Costco when they are on sale, but think I personally will be happier with this setup (Not my pic) -

View attachment 109992

View attachment 109993
Click to expand...
I got QJ TL with a few mods to it, 27” lifting at frame rails and casters for easy rolling. Beats Jack stands for sure.
but
I would buy a kwik-lift and sell the QJ If I could find one.
 
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R
#43 · (Edited)
Thanks!!!

Son and I got it mostly done today - he had to go to work at 1pm so we stopped short of filling with fluid (want him to do most of the work himself). Car is leveled on the Kwik-Lift, and it will get fluid added first thing tomorrow when he gets here. We have ~4hrs in it so far, figuring another hour for filling properly and then re-installing covers.

Do you really drain fluid between each fill step??? It seems like this would be for when you are only changing the fluid (ie., wasn’t emptied like when changing the valve body).

3. Step 3
a. Repeat “Step 2”.
b. After repeating step to, move to step 4.
4. Final Step (You do not need to lower and lift the car every time, unless if you’re using an actual lift. Also, don’t worry about using CONSULT to check ATF temp. Just let the car run for 3 minutes at a time, after pumping in the transmission fluid.
a. Use CONSULT to check that the ATF temperature is 40°C (104°F) or less.
b. Lift up the vehicle.
c. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan, and then drain the ATF.
d. When the ATF starts to drip, tighten the drain plug to the oil pan to the specified torque.
 
R
#45 ·
Man, not sure where you are, but if you are ever near Houston I owe you a beer! I think we ended up with about 6.5qts (out of 9.5 added) left in the transmission. Test drove it and is working as normal again, no codes, etc. We have to do brakes in a couple of months, will probably recheck the level then but feel good that we have it where it needs to be.

That part of the procedure is pointless in my mind if you have replaced the valve body and gotten the vast majority of fluid out of the transmission already. I can see it if you are just replacing 3 quarts at a time to change the fluid by draining and filling the pan multiple times (dilutes the old fluid left in the transmission).
 
T
#62 ·
I too live in Houston and I see that Addiction does too. I live in Humble and now having the valve body issue. Transmission shops and Infiniti now quoting 4000. Called Gary's transmission and he said he would do it for 3400 but his warranty was shady. West Houston Inifiniti quoted 3600 plus tax and Sewell north quoted 4000. This is just absurd repair cost for something like this. I plan on doing this myself.
 
B
#48 ·
Help,.I ordered refurb valve body off of eBay, from a reputable seller, installed it, double checked it, went back together perfectly. Still in limp mode, very frustrating
Took to a tranny shop,.head mechanic telling me that there computer won't communicate or connect with TCM, said best bet is to purchase new one for 1800 from local dealership. Can't afford it, what do I need to do? I contacted the seller in Florida, he recommended taking to dealership for reflash on TCM. I hate the dealership guys. What should I do?
 
K
#49 ·
@bluegsxr2012 At this point, that may be your only option. See what the dealership can do about connecting to it and I guess "reflashing" the TCM if that's what it needs. I suppose that's the risk you take purchasing refurbished valve bodies, who knows if the vehicle will accept it. Or maybe it's a a bad refurbished valve body assembly from the seller.
 
T
#61 ·
Hey my friend, I too live in Houston and I am stuck with the same code. Infiniti and transmissions shops are now quoting $4,000 to do this job and that is absurd. I can buy new valve body from infiniti with parts for about 1300. I want to do this myself and I am mechanically inclined and feel confident about it, but if you can help me I will be forever grateful. I live in Humble Texas. Even a phone call to walk through the process would be appreciated.
 
#50 ·
I'm not saying for sure that there is no TCM flash but I do not see any procedure to do so in the FSM.
 
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