Here’s the information from Z1’s page as well.

 

Now even I’m confused now. It states that even with the VQ35HR engine in the hybrid, I should use the 15208-65F1B whereas 15208-65F0E is recommended for all the non hybrid VQ35HR and VQ37VHR. I’ve always used the Nismo 15208-RN011 oil filter so I am going to have to look up the oil pressure on that filter now.

 

Interesting I'm sure majority of owners are either running OEM Filters from the dealership or Mobil 1/Oversized filters. In which case the Mobil 1 M1-108A which is listed a compatible oil filter by Mobil 1 doesn't actually doesn't meet the (250 KPa / 36 PSI) relief/bypass valve recommendation as its calibrated for around 15PSI.

Its assuming the oil weight is 0W20 with 10K mile OCI, that said the non OEM filters by-pass valve opening sooner just means there is less chance of oil starvation taking place in the event the oil filter flow does start to become limited due to contamination in the filter. Since pretty much everyone in the community is running 3-7K OCI there should be less contamination in their oil overall as well.

I don't think any real harm is being done but its definitely something to keep in mind.

 

interesting take since the filter will bypass, at least momentarily, on every cold start ever regardless of outside air temp, and also when higher than probably around 3000rpm. even then, its only momentary.

something to note, pretty much all synth filters have lower bypass values, and thats not a bad thing. that media flows a lot more than standard media, thus having a lower pressure drop, thus requiring a lower bypass valve. this was tested quite some time ago: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...orums/threads/differential-pressure-data-pure-1-motorcraft.207857/#post-3197740 Differential Pressure Testing Update while this is a bit of an apples and orange comparison, it still bears true that bypass vavles, rarely do.

i seriously doubt the pressure differential across an oil filter is the cause of these failures, especially considering the data accumulated in the failure thread follows no logical failure mode. low mileage, high mileage, stock, modified, raced, babied, viscosity, interval change, NONE OF IT MATTERED and none of it correlates to an oil filter cracking pressure being too low.

 

I'd say the Oil Pressure Solenoid failure is more likely contributing to oil-related engine failures than using an oil filter with a lower bypass rating.

So I haven't looked, but does P/N 15208-9E01A (oversize) oil filter have a similar (lower) bypass rating as P/N 15208-65F0E? I ran the oversized filter for over 20k miles with 4-5 OCIs before a whistle-under-boost doomed one of my turbos...

 

Yes the oversized filter has a lower bypass rating as it was developed in the 90s for the very first VQ30DE engine and it was only meant to be used on the VQ30DE and DE-K engines and then later used on the VR38DETT but both filters have the same rating.

 

Geez, I am confused too. I have been running 15208-9E01A for 55k miles on it with 5k OCI religiously. I haven't had a problem, but it does beg the question regarding the oil pressure solenoid controlling oil pressure vs the oil filter bypass pressure. If the recommendation is to go back to the original recommended 15208-651FB then I will stock up and not use the 15208-9E01A filter with the 14 psi bypass. But then again, I really don't want to starve the engine of oil either under spirited driving.

These discussions are very interesting, but it's like poking a bees nest trying to get the honey out of it. I am sure there is some logic in this somewhere.

 

You guys are way overthinking bypass pressure. Again, it has absolutely nothing, zero, zilch, nada to do with engine oil pressure, other than rpm based pressure.

The internal bypass is about differential pressure, that means the pressure entering the filter must be greater than what's leaving the filter in order for the valve to open. That difference in pressure is the PSI rating that you see.

If you have cheap **** filter media that does not flow as well, you will need a higher bypass pressure in order to keep more oil passing through the filter, but this reduces flow. Synth media has a lot more flow capability than standard media. That means there will be less pressure drop by default. Because there is less pressure drop, you do not need as high of a relief valve because the filter is passing more oil through it, there is more flow.

The change to that filter is restricted to that filter specifically, not every filter that you will buy. Most aftermarket synthetic filters are Head and shoulders above OEM filters, which are on par with the standard offerings you see at parts stores. There is nothing special about an oem filter, literally nothing.

Using that filter is not going to prevent your turbos from failing, end of story. Stop wishing, stop hoping, that's just not going to happen. Look through the failure thread. There is nothing anyone here can do to extend the life of the turbos. You can baby the car, you can change the oil viscosity, you can change the oil more often, you can change your driving habits, and literally nothing will prevent failure. The issue is that these are little turbos that spin over 200,000 RPM, and they either don't have good QC or they are designed with more tolerance than needed. That is the failure, not oil, and certainly not a bypass rating on a filter.

 

Using that filter is not going to prevent your turbos from failing, end of story. Stop wishing, stop hoping, that's just not going to happen. Look through the failure thread. There is nothing anyone here can do to extend the life of the turbos. You can baby the car, you can change the oil viscosity, you can change the oil more often, you can change your driving habits, and literally nothing will prevent failure. The issue is that these are little turbos that spin over 200,000 RPM, and they either don't have good QC or they are designed with more tolerance than needed. That is the failure, not oil, and certainly not a bypass rating on a filter.

My friend and savior Jobu disagrees with you. I'm on my second Q50 with no turbo issues due to him.

 

Scratching my head as I checked the oil filter, 15208-9E01A and found it's listed for the 2023 Nissan GTR as well as other years, and naturally many other N/A applications.
Z1 also has the above filter listed for the Q50 and GTR.

 

there would be a slight difference but i dont think its enough to matter until you get into the temps where someone such as yourself would experience.

 

Should I be bringing an oil filter when I get the car serviced? I always assumed my mechanic would know which filter to use, but if we aren't even certain?

 

That would depend on where your getting the car serviced, but any dealership should be using the Factory prescribed oil filters. Either way you're driving a 2015 Q50 which means its a VQ37 the above conversation doesn't really apply in your case as that conversation relates to the VR30 motor which is 2016+.

 

I know this probably isn’t a good time, but who is jobo?

 

some fictitious voodoo guy from a baseball movie with Charlie Sheen. Can’t remember the name it was that bad.

 

if you boil it down and step back for one moment. isn't is kind of absurd to think an engines longterm survival comes down to a type of oil filter used!

when i got this car, i studied all this on this forum and picked one oem filter 15208-9E01A and oil per the manual and then brand preference (0W-20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 0W-20).
but again stepping back its wild to think how critical of a thing it has become because of what is on the line, needing a new engine.

most cars , you change the oil (including filter), check the level once in a while, and repeat......

cliff notes: this car is super finicky lol

 

if you boil it down and step back for one moment. isn't is kind of absurd to think an engines longterm survival comes down to a type of oil filter used!

Yeah, as I've mentioned elsewhere, the Garrett turbos are made of glass, and the VR30 engine is made of tempered glass - both will break, just one breaks easier than the other.

5k OCIs, Valvoline ME 5W30 oil, and "big" Nissan filter - the engine internals looked great when Infiniti pulled the engine out of my '17 Q60 @ 33k miles on the count of a whistling turbo, which they judged could have contaminated the engine with metal bits, so out it went!

After the engine & both turbos were replaced, I quit while I was ahead and traded-in my Q.

 

It must have been Major League, I was in highschool when it came out so the sophomoric humor really hit home.

 

It must, have been Major League, I was in highschool when it came out so the sophomoric humor really hit home.

1989.

 

Your Q50 is having problems - “Should have gotten a live chicken!”

 

I feel I have a false sense of confidence because I have a ‘23 Q with updated turbos. Are there any accounts of failed turbos and block issues past ‘21 (yet)?

 

my engine blew at 70K with the M1-108A filter...I know it was not the cause, but I have never used that filter again. I have been using the cheap wix filter which has great everything same filter I put on my Subaru suv. Blackstone says specifically my oil has great filtration at 125k on the vr30 engine...point is overthinking filters is fun but not productive. Worried about oil pressure? Get a gauge, it's what I did!