Thanks for the write up! I am debating doing this myself versus having the dealer do it while it is in for some warranty work.

I found another post with the tech manual pages detailing how to do the service (http://www.infinitiq50.org/forum/diy-garage/82554-30k-fluid-question-2014-q50.html). I noticed that there were a couple of steps specific to the hybrids that were on the TM.

If you have the TM, could you help me out with a couple questions?
- Do you know what the "inspection mode 5 state" (step 2, line n) is? Is this disabling the EV mode so the engine is always running?
- Also, do you know what it is referring to in running the sub electric oil pump HBC-20 "HYBRID CONTROL SYSTEM" (step 4, line k)?

Also as a note, it took me a while to figure out that the yamaha adapter was a part included with the gear lube pump. Might be worthwhile editing the write up to clear that up for future people.

 

- Also, do you know what it is referring to in running the sub electric oil pump HBC-20 "HYBRID CONTROL SYSTEM" (step 4, line k)?

Regarding ATF replacement on hybrid. There is step (i) for bleeding air from electric pump "For bleeding air from the sub electric oil pump, run the motor continuously for approximately 30 seconds." Which motor they mean, engine or motor of electric pump. If second, how to run it? I believe it will run in EV mode on D, correct?
After this step, inspection mode 5 shall be turned on (step 5 below). If I understand correctly in this mode petrol engine will run and electric pumps doesn't but I am not sure why they mention to control electric pump rpm, it should be 0... and what to do if electric pump will run (step 19)

Here is procedure from FSM

f. Fill approximately 3 liters (3-1/8 US qt, 2-5/8 lmp qt) of the ATF.
g. Remove the bucket pump hose and the charging pipe, then temporarily
tighten the overflow plug to the oil pan.
CAUTION:
Quickly perform the procedure to avoid ATF leakage from
the oil pan.
j. Lift down the vehicle.
i. For bleeding air from the sub electric oil pump, run the motor continuously for approximately 30 seconds.
For motor running state, refer to HBC-20, "HYBRID CONTROL SYSTEM : System Description".
j. Turn ignition switch OFF.
4. Turn ignition switch ON.
5. Set the vehicle to inspection mode 5 state. Refer to TM-9, "Precautions Concerning On-board Servicing of
Hybrid Systems".
6. Select “Data Monitor” in “TRANSMISSION” with CONSULT.
7. Select “ATF TEMP 1” and “SUB E-OP REVOLUTION”.
8. Check that the “ATF TEMP 1” value is 35°C (95°F) or less.
9. Set the vehicle to READY.
10. Shift the selector lever through each gear position. Leave selector lever in “P” position.
11. Lift up the vehicle.
12. Remove engine under cover rear.
13. Check the ATF leakage from transmission.
14. Install the O-ring (315268E000) (A) to the charging pipe
(310811EA5A) (B).
15. Remove overflow plug from oil pan. Refer to TM-243, "Exploded View".
Install the charging pipe (A) to the overflow plug hole.
CAUTION:
Tighten the charging pipe by hand.
17. Install the bucket pump hose (B) to the charging pipe.
18. Fill approximately 0.5 liters (1/2 US qt, 1/2 lmp qt) of the ATF.
19. Check that the ATF leaks when removing the bucket pump hose. If the ATF does not leak, refill the ATF.
CAUTION:
• Perform this work the vehicle idling.
• Check that the “Data Monitor” “SUB E-OP REVOLUTION” is 0 rpm.
When the ATF starts to drip, remove the charging pipe.
21. Tighten the overflow plug to the oil pan to the specified torque. Refer to TM-243, "Exploded View".
CAUTION:
Never reuse drain plug and drain plug gasket. Failure to do this may cause the leakage of ATF.
22. Install engine under cover rear.
23. Lift down the vehicle.
24. Turn ignition switch OFF.

 

Some pumps include the yamaha adapter in the package (refer the attached photo). Infiniti/Nissan discontinued the OEM adapter (charging pipe(Part# 31081-1EA5A) and o-ring (Part# 31526-8E000) but luckily we don't need them anymore.

My 2nd car G35 has 180k miles on it but the transmission still runs like new. I flushed the fluid every 40k miles with Valvoline maxlife full synthetic. The maxlife was in better condition after every 40k miles than the OEM Matic J(now S). But I used OEM Matic S this time since it's under warranty just in case. PS: I have gasoline 3.7 Q50.

 

I highly recommend to prepare a NEW overflow plug bolt before starting the work. It striped easily. I could remove the bolt with a locking plier but I had to run to a dealer. The drain bolt was strong enough though.

 

Great write-up, details, and pictures. Will definitely refer to this in the future!

 

As far as part #'s for the overflow plug, will it be the same part # for a 2017 Q50 S Redsport?

Also, I don't get Tip #2 . I just want to check the fluid myself to make sure the shop filled it properly and it's not missing any. So when I loosen the overflow bolt if I lose 1.5 quarts then I will have defeited my purpose. How do I stop it from draining if I just wanna check the fluid?

Also, must you use a new overflow plug?

 

Also, I don't get Tip #2 . I just want to check the fluid myself to make sure the shop filled it properly and it's not missing any. So when I loosen the overflow bolt if I lose 1.5 quarts then I will have defeited my purpose. How do I stop it from draining if I just wanna check the fluid?

Also, must you use a new overflow plug?

Agree with the question...if you lose 1.5qts first time why won't you at the end when you remove the pump assembly? A true overfill hole should be just that. Like a standard rear diff...

When engine stops, 1.5qt will drain. When engine runs, gear is at P position(P->R->N->D->N->R->P), fluid temperature is lower than 104F(40C), and unless it's not overfilled, it will not drain.

The overflow plug is just $2~3 at Infiniti or Nissan dealership. Because dealerships near my house didn't have the bolt in stock, I had to wait for several days. I installed old bolt temporarily and replaced it several days later.

So in total you used about 10 quarts?

Edit: Where did you get the Yamaha adapter?

I used 12 qt. The Yamaha adapter was included in the pump. It's quite amazing product for the price $5.

 

Agree with the question...if you lose 1.5qts first time why won't you at the end when you remove the pump assembly? A true overfill hole should be just that. Like a standard rear diff...

 

I'm a DIY-er but I don't exactly keep current with all car's technology as a car mechanic would.
Why can't they keep this crap simple. Put a **** dipstick in these cars and call it a day. Why do manufacturers have to keep complicating things.

 

[QUOTE[
I'm a DIY-er but I don't exactly keep current with all car's technology as a car mechanic would.
Why can't they keep this crap simple. Put a **** dipstick in these cars and call it a day. Why do manufacturers have to keep complicating things.[/QUOTE]

I am the Director of a 40 employee fleet maintenance shop and I can't keep up...one thing for sure they make it increasingly difficult for anyone but a dealership to make repairs.
Infiniti doesn't have the patent on that thought process though...

 

[QUOTE[
I'm a DIY-er but I don't exactly keep current with all car's technology as a car mechanic would.
Why can't they keep this crap simple. Put a **** dipstick in these cars and call it a day. Why do manufacturers have to keep complicating things.

I am the Director of a 40 employee fleet maintenance shop and I can't keep up...one thing for sure they make it increasingly difficult for anyone but a dealership to make repairs.
Infiniti doesn't have the patent on that thought process though...[/QUOTE]

Couldn't agree with you more. I've been a side mechanic for decades doing my own stuff. Wen to school for auto mechanics in fact but then switched careers. I have a home shop with a lift and all sorts of tools and I just can't fathom these new ways of doing things. They make it more difficult as you said for us to do our own stuff.

 

So in total you used about 10 quarts?

Edit: Where did you get the Yamaha adapter?

 

Hmmmm. I don't necessarily like being underneath a running car on jack stands.....since I don't have a hoist....
Like it's been said "let us have a dipstick for gosh sake"!!

 

At least we still have engine oil dipsticks. Last I remember, my old BMW didn't even have that.

 

So I just did mine. Simpler than I thought. Although, yes, PITA over a dipstick. I much rather have a dipstick.
I have a car lift at home so the process for me was simpler. The tricky part is when you do it by yourself. 104F climbs up there pretty quick and you have to be sort of quick pumping in fluid and checking drainage.

 

I plan to do a single drain and fill three consecutive weekends. Any ill effects to draining the fluid when the car is cold and refilling with the same amount?

 

As long as you put what you removed I don't see any issues

 

Forgot to ask.. what about the transmission filter swap? Or do we not have one?

 

Finally going to attempt this soon. Now that I have put more thought into, If I do a single drain and fill I don't think it wouldn't be necessary to measure the amount I drain since all I have to do is fill until the ATF starts leaking from the fill hole. I believe this is similar to changing the diff fluid plus the fluids(old and new) should have similar viscosity as I plan to do this when the car is completely cold. Am I missing anything here? I just want to simplify the process.

 

Thanks for the info. I have a 2011 G37S sedan RWD with 66,250 miles and just did a trans fluid change. Only took out 3.5 quarts and put back 5 then drained down as per instructions. Took the car out after for a test drive and it ran great. The old fluid was not as bad as I expected and I will do this procedure again in a few months after I get a lift to make my life easier - will drop the pan at that time. Your write up was very helpful.

 

So you removed 3.5 then added 5 then let the fluid drain from the fill hole?

 

If there wasn't enough ATF added (say 1/4qt), would the transmission shift noticeably different? I just had a drain and fill done, and I feel like it jerks ever so slightly when going into reverse, and when shifting from stoplight to stoplight. When WOT on the freeway, it feels fine.

 

How do you know there wasn't enough added?

 

Great write up.

 

^ I am going to do the 1x3 for 3 straight oil changes. That's how I did it on my Acura back when those cars had transmission issues.

 

GREAT write up! Infiniti published a TSB around the time the 7spd transmission came out for the G37. This doc (3 pages) is also very helpful for those who want to do the Honda style "drain and fill" fluid refreshes ( or to check the trans fluid level) over a few maintenance cycles, as opposed to draining all 12 quarts in one setting. I also plain to do 3 consecutive transmission drain and fills at each oil change at 30K, 35K, and 40K.

http://www.infinitig37.com/TSB/ITB11-036.pdf

BTW, if you were wondering, I am going to be using Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic ATF. Its the same stuff as Nissan Matic S (possibly better). Matic S is essentially MERCON LV with add-ons that meet JASO 1A-LV, so I have no fear in using a fluid that meets those requirements. If for some reason Infiniti tried to deny a warranty claim because of this, I'll lawyer up and prepare to fight a case on the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act.

 

Just did a drain fill today on my 2015 with 29k miles. It's a lot simpler than the directions lead on to. Fluid came out a dark golden brown. I know the TSB says fluid darkening is normal and not an indication of deterioration but for me it's peace of mind pumping back in fresh red Matic S.

 

I'm planning to drain and refill my transmission fluid this weekend but upon reading the instructions on this post. I'm having a bit of issue understand it. OP said to first remove the overfill plug so that 1.5 Quarts can be drained out. Then remove the drain plug and 2 quarts should come out. Making it 3.5 quarts total. The overfill plug will only drain 1.5 Quarts if the car is off and below 90F? Will it also drain 1.5 Quarts if the car is between 90F and 100F with the car off?

After draining all the fluid from the drain plug. I would plug in the adapter to overfill plug and fill with approximately 3.5 quarts. Turn on the engine and then go through every single gear, with 30 second in-between gear switch. After going through all the gears, my car would be placed back into park. While the car is on and transmission is at 104F, I will remove the adapter and see if any fluid leaks from the overfill plug. If fluid comes out, it means the pan is full. If nothing comes out, it means I have to add more and repeat the gear switch process.

May someone correct me if I'm wrong?

 

Don't over complicate it. ATF is very temp dependent so what comes out will vary if the trans is hot. I would start on a cold engine and put back in what came out. Yes, at 104* if fluid is dripping out of the fill plug, you're good to go. If it's not, it's low so add more, and repeat the fluid level check procedure.

 

im attempting this and just to be clear on this....this is 3 drain and fill procedure done at the time essentially?

if i understand this correctly:

First Drain:
remove the overflow plug
remove the drain plug
put the drain plug back
filled with oil in the overflow
start the car, let temp of oil go up to 104*

-repeat above steps 2 more time. except on the 3rd drain and filled you run the gears and make sure the overflow is seeping out otherwise more oil is needed.

this is why the OP used 12 quarts or 3 gallons of transmission fluid.

is this an accurate summary?

 

Does this DIY work for VR30 engines too?


I notice we're all still using the 7 Speed automatic on the 2017+ VR30 models.


I don't know if they changed anything to the newer transmissions, maybe beefed it up internally to handle the twin turbo low end torque?

 

Hmmm I think the adjusted line pressure on the transmission to compensate for the added torque from the VR30 engine, I'm not aware of any major redesigns that took
but taking a look at the VR30 SM the process to perform a fluid change appears to be very similar. Torque specs for the two plugs are the same as well.

 

I just did a 1 x drain and fill at 75,000km or 46k miles and the transmission was fairly dark. I'll do another drain and fill later this week when the transmission is cold.

However I use a garden pressure pump to inject the new transmission fluid. Just measure what drained out and put the same amount of new transmission fluid in.

The garden pressure pump makes it so much easier, especially if the car is on jack stands and not on a hoist.

Just pump it slowly as you don't want to over pressurise the bottle or the transmission. The switch on handle allows you to stop the flow of fluid once done so the transmission fluid will not flow back out.

Just purchase the gear lube pump $10.00 on eBay and a garden pressure pump $9.00 from our local Bunning hardware store here in Australia.

The gotcha is that I've paid Infiniti to get the transmission drain and fill at about 50,000km. Whether they actually did this or not is debatable.

See attached picture.

 

Just an update after about 3000km on the new fluid. I've drain and fill a total of about 15 litres over several weekends. yes its very over the top but the hybrid transmission has a both a dry and wet clutch setup and I wanted to remove as much of the clutch material floating in the old oil as possible.

Our Q50 hybrid is just out of warranty, I could get my hands on Matic S but I had to buy it in 40 litre drums from Nissan at $40 AUD per litre yikes. So I got 5 gallons of Amsoil fuel efficient synthetic ATF (the blue bottle) which states that its Matic S compatible.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...ure-series-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=ATLPK-EA

what I notice straight away after the Amsoil is that the transmission is noticeably quieter and smoother less hunting especially if the car is coasting on light throttle. Most noticeable when going from electric to ICE there are sometimes hunting from the transmission.

On the first start up of each day, with the old fluid when putting it into drive there was a slight 1/2 second delay before the car starts to roll on its own. With the new Amsoil fluid there was no delay just very smooth engagement. I can't feel the transmission when engaging from PARK to DRIVE in the morning when the ICE is switched on.

I did a spirited country drive with lots of ample room to open her up for an Italian tuneup and gave a Porsche Cayman S a run for its money for 40km on the twisties. Very satisfied with the new transmission fluid.

With the old transmission fluid when running on electric motor only and you plant it to do an over take especially on a hill. The transmission would have a slight delay before deciding to turn on the ICE motor. With the new fluid there is no noticeable delay.

Bottom line is that I should have done the fluid change much earlier in the ownership of the hybrid. Anyway its done now and very very happy with the results.

 

Just an update after about 3000km on the new fluid...

Good info and update. Amsoil always makes quality products. Wonder if your improved transmission experience is because of new fluid or because the Amsoil fluid is superior? Probably hard to determine.