Very interesting. Similar to my dragy times on JB1 from 0-60 being very inconsistent. Could this be the optical sensors on the red sport?


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Very interesting. Similar to my dragy times on JB1 from 0-60 being very inconsistent. Could this be the optical sensors on the red sport?

Not sure. My understanding of the optical sensors is to keep the turbines spinning efficiently. What were your times?

Those are some impressive numbers. I like that the torque curve falls off around 5000 RPM. No need to wind her out further than necessary.
Given that amount of torque, is it safe to assume that the Red Sport transmissions are different from the transmissions powered by the "old" 3.7 litre engines ?

I've read a few places, both here and other sites, that say it's the same transmission but beefed up. What that actually means though is up for debate. I'd love to see what these cars could do with a proper DCT.

thanks for sharing bud. One thing i noticed is you're already pulling >400 lbs-ft with no added boost and on a mustang dyno (?)

second run sounds about right though.

Yeah I was really surprised by that. I wish I could have done a true baseline before I installed the Helmholtz to see if the exhaust gave anything. As nice as the numbers look, I'm more concerned about what was gained between map 0 and map 1 on the JB4. That impressed me.

 

Those are some impressive numbers. I like that the torque curve falls off around 5000 RPM. No need to wind her out further than necessary.
Given that amount of torque, is it safe to assume that the Red Sport transmissions are different from the transmissions powered by the "old" 3.7 litre engines ?

 

Yep same transmission beefed up, Infiniti US had an article posted where they mention in passing they reinforced the tranny.
But as mentioned by others no specifics of how it was improved.

I had sent a few letters to Infiniti/Nissan and Jatco but only one responded which was to pretty much
say they can't discuss.

All launched no heat soak same track days apart

Break torque till 25k RS400 AWD

Bone Stock AVG out of a dozen runs 4.3-4.4 best 4.29

JB1 + 3PSI AVG 4.4 best 4.15 after 21 tries. 9 runs after still avg at 4.3.

Can you or anyone post your 0-60 on your current map 1 and let us know what you got?

Honestly I can’t make any sense out of it unless those sensors are cutting me off somewhere mid launch. Yes I feel the torque gain, but it made close to no difference at all on my runs (Except that one time out of 30+ tries). Terry has been very helpful, but I’m getting closer to going Ecutek because if this.

I've seen this complaint a few times about the JB4 kits, is a few things people need to remember
when they take their car to the track expecting noticeable performance gains.


1.After 5,500 RPM both HP and Torque gains taper off and very minor compared to early in the rev-range.

2. Most of the time you spend in an acceleration test the car is bouncing between 5500 RPM and Red Line (depending on gearing), even when only doing a 0-60 run that extra power your making around 1800-4800 RPM you only actually get to use during a launch.

This means those large gains you see lower in the power band are largely negated because
the rest of the time your above 5000 RPM.

Proof of this can be seen in 3Block's Dyno graphs where he in fact looses power after 5500 RPM compared to stock.

3. Short shifting. Not sure if you tried this in your runs but if you switch to manual mode try short shifting around 5500-6K
And see if you make back any time. You may loose some however as I know the manual mode isn't amazing even at WOT.

If your looking for real gains in the 1/4 mile & or in the dash to 60 a tune is much better option, the JB1/4 is really designed
to liven up the car when it's driving around town.

 

thanks for sharing bud. One thing i noticed is you're already pulling >400 lbs-ft with no added boost and on a mustang dyno (?)

second run sounds about right though.

 

So I was thinking (which can be dangerous at times)...

Could the drop in power at the top of the band be due to the turbos crossing the efficiency threshold?

 

Probably due to thermals and stress on the tiny turbos the car comes with, I'm sure efficiency is part of it as well but having the HP drop off at the top end is pretty
much par for the course for cars these days.

Manufactures focus on low-end responsiveness which makes the car fun around town but also means your power-band is focused to the lower rev-ranges
so you loose top end power. Having smaller turbos spooled up all the time also hurt the fuel economy of the car as your constantly in boost, I imagine if they had
turbos that spooled up from 3000-6700 RPM we would see a 1-2MPG increase.

I kind of wish they went with slightly bigger turbos personally, a well sorted transmission would easily keep the car in the power band even if
it didn't start making great power until the upper range.

 

I have 2 question I have a 2018 Q50 red sport with the jb4 Bluetooth I’m running map 5. 5psi with 93 Chevron gas. Is that safe and my 2nd question is. When I start my car do I always have to connect to the Jb4 app or if I don’t connect does it stay on map 5 or the car returns to stock thanks

 

One thing to note, I hit some sort of boost/fuel/temp cutoff or something during the third run. I took logs so I'm gonna send them to Burger and see if they can tell what happened. There were no noises or pops or anything like that, just a temporary loss of power. No warning lights or codes. Didn't happen again after that and car runs great as usual.

Scans of the dyno sheets are attached. First graph is runs one and two (1st run is solid, 2nd run is dashed). Second graph is runs two and three (2nd run is solid, 3rd run is dashed). JB4 log of my second run: AFR at WOT ran between 10.8 and 11.7, max boost pushed was 17.5 psi at 5300 rpms.

So my experience with this cut off is that you hit what’s called limp mode possibly. That’s when the car just cuts you out to save it from whatever we are doing to it. Now I’ve hit something like this twice when I spiked to 29psi at upshift because my previous tuner didn’t compensate for boost under load properly. Essentially he didn’t tune for boost cut or closing the wastegate properly. This led to a massive spike and then fart no more boost. This could be something similar in the JB world. I would email my map out to some JB people and see what they say. Also @Boxy on this forum seems to have a good understanding of the JB. Maybe send him a private message for another optinion. On another note haven’t been in a chat with you in a while man hope all is well. Next is some E20 and the JB lol. AFR looks good and under your build I wouldn’t recommend running any more boost. Remember tapering boost past 5-6K is highly recommended. Good Luck.

 

Interesting. I didn't even think about limp mode. I haven't had any issues since and I've wound her out quite a few times. I'm on the JB4 (Map 1) and the highest boost I've logged is 18 and change. What would trigger limp mode under those circumstances? Maybe heat soak? I sent my logs from the dyno to Burger but I left the room on the 3rd run and that one didn't record, so yeah, no way for me to tell what happened.

Things have been really busy for me. Sold my house and moving back across the country. Work is hectic with changeover, interviews, and all that ish. As far as moving out of Cali, I think I'm most excited to have access to 93+ octane fuel. Haha. I'll send you a PM here in a bit.

 

I thought this video was interesting. This was the 500hp Q that was in the YouTube video racing Ferrari’s. They tuned it on 93 Pump then added the AMS Intake. After seeing there 93 numbers I feel really good about my 93 pump tune. Lol.

https://youtu.be/JcqZQUYxfVM
1st run
384hp-456tq
2nd
394hp-463tq
3rd with AMS intake
398hp-472tq.

 

After seeing there 94 numbers I feel really good about my 93 pump tune.

Me too. We'll see how well the Seb magic pixie dust (tuning) works this weekend when I visit an AWD dyno with my 93 Octane map. Weather's looking good with temps in the mid-60s at dyno time

 

With the ethanol tune, there's a lot of power to be had, but one of the great things about E85 is its antiknock properties.

Also, that car is on stock CB exhaust. It's going from 2.5" to 1.75" (IIRC) with no good transition. I do recall him saying he's going to drop the exhaust and see what an open DP car does with the same calibration.

 

Cheaper to build the VR30 than to swap a blown, built 3.7L.

Rods, pistons, bigger turbos, perhaps a little head work. You'd be basically on par with AMS' build.

 

You have to REALLY like the platform if these numbers are true on this 3.7. His turkey is pretty ridiculous.

FULL CARBON FIBER 2009 Nissan 370z with over 100k in it (less than 9000km on everything including engine), one of the fastest Zs in North America, here is the details of the build:

Engine/ Drivetrain and fuel upgrades
Fully build VQ37VHR (HBR performance built VQ37VHR Bore 3.7805 Stroke 3.460 Wiseco dished 9.0:1 Pistons, Wiseco 9600 XS Rings, K1 Billet 4340 Steel H Beam connecting rods, OEM bearings) $15000
AAM Competition 370Z Twin Turbo System, Installation, and Tuning Package ( Twin Turbo Build $45000)
AAMC 3" TD Exhaust System
AAM Competition 370Z Oil Cooler System (R-line water cooled)
AAMC/EcuTek Base FI Package ecu - boost controller and advanced traction controls
AAM Competition GT-R Auto dumb Catch Can System Limited Edition Black fitted in a 370Z
SPEC Super Twin Plate SS-Trim Clutch /Flywheel Assy for HR/370Z
RJM 370Z/ G37 Pedal Assembly- w BOTH Clevis Fork Styles
Heavy Duty Slave Cylinder w/ Lines; 07-09 HR 350Z; 09-11 370Z VHR
AAM Competition twin fuel pump
deatschwerks 1000CC injectors
AAM return fuel kit
AAM Competition 370Z Fuel Rail & Line Kit Upgrade
AAM competition MAF sensors
Z1 motor mounts

Suspension AND Differential
Nissan nismo performance struts and springs
Stillen front + Rear Sway bar $400
SPL front + Rear camber arms $1000
Fully build differential with wavetrac LSD and finned diff cover for cooling $3500
SPL rear diff bushing

Tires/Rims + Brakes
Forgestar CF5V performance light weight rims $3000
275/35/19 +28 fronts and 305/30/19 +18 rears
AP Racing Radi-Cals brakes 6 pistons 14.5” rotor front/ 4 pistons rear 14” rotor $8000

Exterior
fly1motorsports full carbon fiber body kit $4000
fly1motorsports full carbon fiber wing $1000
fly1motorsports full carbon fiber hood $1000
fly1motorsports RS1 carbon fiber vented fenders $1000
Custom headlights $800

Interior
Sparco Racing Seats with brackets and sliders $2000
Custom Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel $1000
Custom gauge pillar from our member Galeforce with boost gauge and air/fuel ratio gauge
Removed all factory gauges and replace with temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure $1000
2 jl w3v2 in a Zenclosure box and focals speakers –JL 1000 monoblock and JL 2 channel amp
Custom Steering wheel

 

Over $100K in it and only 700WHP?

I like how they put a question mark at the end of "GT-R Killer?", because they know that it still won't get a GT-R to 60, and probably not in the 1/4 mile, either. I couldn't find a time for it, but judging from similar 2WD MT cars.

It's pretty awesome that he built that car entirely, but I think Rux said it best; you have to *really* like that platform.

 

"Sparco Racing Seats with brackets and sliders $2000"
I wonder if thry have them gor the Q50. I'm not a huge fan of our seats. Base is mot wide enough for my hip bones. The sides dig into them. 6'1" 210 lb. Ya think they would make a seat that fits guys like me. Well it WAS designed. By smaller people ? My G37IPL was worse. It was the primary reason I got my Q50.

 

I think what John was trying to say is.

https://youtu.be/GTboGG7DMwU

 

The seats are ok. Not great. You ever sit in the premium seat?

 

I don't mind the seats. They're decent for a sedan. I can roll out of this car a lot easier than the GT-R, and on this car I think they've got the 'goldilocks' factor just right.

 

Is it easier to get out because the seat bottom is much higher from the ground than your GTR?

I am contemplating GTR Nismo seats as a pie-in-the-sky mod down the road.

 

Recently drove several thousand miles in a Mercedes GLC. Those seats were really nice but I’ve never had an issue with the Infiniti seats it’s just that F’ing back up camera. It’s S**t I tell u.
My car seems pretty low to and there pretty easy to roll out of.

This would be nice though.
https://youtu.be/EGvfdjUOPi0

 

Recently drove several thousand miles in a Mercedes GLC. Those seats were really nice but I’ve never had an issue with the Infiniti seats it’s just that F’ing back up camera. It’s S**t I tell u.
My car seems pretty low to and there pretty easy to roll out of.

This would be nice though.
https://youtu.be/EGvfdjUOPi0

I agree. The back up camera in my Q50 su@ks pond water. The one in my G37IPL was a LOT better. WTF over. Maybe LED back up lights mounted somewhere? It's useless at night.

 

Has anyone ever compared the RWD vs AWD dynos. I would expect RWD to put more power down, but it seems that it's almost negligible.

 

You would think so, and that is typically the case. However, Nissan/Infiniti's AWD systems in recent years have been very efficient and from what I've seen the difference is negligible on these cars. If there is one, it's likely less than 10WHP stock.

 

When I did my dyno tune I put down 25 more hp and like 40 more tq then an AWD. A lot has changed from then though but I always thought the RWD cars had better dyno numbers.

 

On the dyno the rollers spin differently front to rear, I think? Unlike on the road where all the power goes to the rear weels first unless they "slip" which I believe the dyno does, unless the front and rear rollers are linked somehow. Anyone know? A LSD helps on pavement for sure.

I got only about 3 feet of both rear weel spin on my new map "hit" today. Not sure if power went to the front wheel since it was so little rear weel spin. Under the bias threshold maybe?

Unless the rollers are linked the dyno will underestimate the power as there would be drive train loss vs pavement.

On dirt with VDC off my car is a blast!

 

AWD system is automatically engaged at low-speeds and from a stop after which it tapers off and only engages as needed.

 

My tires show this too. Rears wear faster than my front. I now since I got my lift, rotate much more often.

 

Spoke with a few techs in the back to confirm, the AWD system only engages when it senses tire slippage or negative road conditions, until then the Q50 will have 100% power in the rear wheels

 

I've done Dyno testing on the 3.7 and the Hybrid, chassis on the Hybrid, and the ground one, all four wheels spin at the same time, the only time I feel that the back wheel is spinning on it's own is when the traction control is off.

 

^^^
This is why a dyno may not emulate pavement unless the front rollers are linked to the rear ones. Thusly the power output will have drive line loss giving under stated #'s... NBD But not real road power output #'s. Again, IMHO. Any dyno tecs out there, or anyone know if linked?

 

I think the AWD can be disabled for dyno testing. Supposedly there's a connection in the trunk that can be unplugged to put it into RWD only mode.

 

I can imagine how bad that could be if it didn't work! If on a 4 wheel dyno not bad but on a 2 wheel dyno!! Eeek!

 

I wouldn't take that chance, someone posted it, a few months back, he rented a 3.0t and unplugged the connection in the trunk and did it on a two wheel Dyno.

 

Was that the same guy who had the dyno inside his garage?

 

I remember that one.