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On my old supercharged 350Z from back in the day that's what I would get when the MAF was so bad it put me in limp mode.
What was the fix? Selling the car?
 
^This is the real issue. Counterfeit HKS BOVs have been marketed by ebay resellers, so I'm not surprised you are having issues.

If you want to invest in BOVs, this week would be the time to buy non-counterfeit/legitimate BOVs from known Q vendors, such as Concept Z Performance:

View attachment 96672

I have not seen a better price on Q50/Q60 VR30 BOVs since they started to get offered in the marketplace.

Both HKS and Turbosmart do the job, with HKS reportedly giving you the more obnoxious "blow-off" sound vs Turbosmart, which is much more subtle.
Do these BOV's eliminate the issue with the MAF not getting the correct readings? There is a video on this thread and the guy is explaining that BOV's on a MAF car will always throw codes? I'm new to such a new turbo'd car so I'm still trying to understand some of this stuff
 
Do these BOV's eliminate the issue with the MAF not getting the correct readings?
I do not have BOVs installed on my Q. However, for those forum members that have installed BOVs, it's been rare that BOVs caused engine codes.

I'm still thinking the OP bought counterfeit BOVs through Ebay, rather than legitimate BOVs through one of the many Infiniti aftermarket suppliers (i.e., Z1, CZP, etc.), and the BOVs may have an internal vacuum leak causing the P0101 code.
 
Do these BOV's eliminate the issue with the MAF not getting the correct readings? There is a video on this thread and the guy is explaining that BOV's on a MAF car will always throw codes? I'm new to such a new turbo'd car so I'm still trying to understand some of this stuff
I had genuine ones that gave me a horrible on off on throttle experience. Removed them and it went away. Watch the video I posted for the explanation.
 
I had genuine ones that gave me a horrible on off on throttle experience. Removed them and it went away. Watch the video I posted for the explanation.
I have watched that video. it's the reason I took BOV off my list of things to purchase. I was just asking if what the guy in the video is 100% accurate I'm not an engineer or a mechanic so while what he is saying sounds right to me I wasn't sure. Let me see if I have this right, BOVs don't really help us with anything since the MAF is sent incorrect readings because it releases air into the atmosphere. Is there a remedy to this? tune? or is there just no benefit except the sound?
 
They can offer a benefit if your car likes them. Mine did not. If you have an Ecutek tune it helps with throttle slam shut compressor surge by cracking open the throttle blades when you are in boost and suddenly get off the throttle. Bottom line is non recirculating BOV units are just not ideal.
 
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They can offer a benefit if your car likes them. Mine did not. If you have an Ecutek tune it helps with throttle slam shut compressor surge by cracking open the throttle blades when you are in boost and suddenly get off the throttle. Bottom line is non recirculating BOV units are just not ideal.
I was going to go with the JB4. I only wanted to squeeze a couple more ponies out of the motor. My plan was JB4 and OCC I like the way BOVs sound so that was something I was considering until I read a few threads saying they COULD cause trouble. We will see after the JB4 and OCC where I'm at, thank you for the info !
 
What was the fix? Selling the car?
Replacing MAF with OEM dealer sourced MAF for $$.
But some folks have successfully used junkyard MAFs.

I had two "new" replacement part MAFs from parts chain stores fail on me the catastrophically on the first and 2nd day of driving respectively.
This is why I dislike K&N filters.. Nissan MAFs hate oiled filters as some oil will always make its way.

My after market SC kit came with oiled filters (Vortech) so there was no going around it.
 
Replacing MAF with OEM dealer sourced MAF for $$.
But some folks have successfully used junkyard MAFs.

I had two "new" replacement part MAFs from parts chain stores fail on me the catastrophically on the first and 2nd day of driving respectively.
This is why I dislike K&N filters.. Nissan MAFs hate oiled filters as some oil will always make its way.

My after market SC kit came with oiled filters (Vortech) so there was no going around it.
Replacing MAF with OEM dealer sourced MAF for $$.
But some folks have successfully used junkyard MAFs.

I had two "new" replacement part MAFs from parts chain stores fail on me the catastrophically on the first and 2nd day of driving respectively.
This is why I dislike K&N filters.. Nissan MAFs hate oiled filters as some oil will always make its way.

My after market SC kit came with oiled filters (Vortech) so there was no going around it.

I have a 2017 q50 silver s, ams intakes full downpipes and cat back, hks bov. I recently used k&n filter cleaner and then used the red oil since I’ve had ams intakes for 30k miles now, and I got a code for p0101 a, I wiped both sensors clean noticed there was obsessive about of red oil from the intakes I sprayed.. and the car now idles really badky and wants to turn off. Just ordered new mass air flow sensors hopefully that fixed my p0101.
 
I have a 2017 q50 silver s, ams intakes full downpipes and cat back, hks bov. I recently used k&n filter cleaner and then used the red oil since I’ve had ams intakes for 30k miles now, and I got a code for p0101 a, I wiped both sensors clean noticed there was obsessive about of red oil from the intakes I sprayed.. and the car now idles really badky and wants to turn off. Just ordered new mass air flow sensors hopefully that fixed my p0101.
You didn't just use MAF cleaner?

But yes you need to be super careful with oil-air filters, can foul your MAF sensors really easily if you go heavy on the oil, I used one in my old altima for 10 years without issue
but it also had a lot more plumbing before it reached the MAF.
 
P0101 is indicating an out-of-spec low or high frequency signal from the MAF sensor to the ECM on the passenger side. P010B would be for the driver's side MAF. I would have tried using MAF cleaner first before replacing them. Wiping isn't enough. I don't know if it is necessary to replace both MAFs if you're not getting a DTC for the driver's side MAF but if it has oil on it as you indicated, then I'd try properly cleaning both MAFs first before replacing either.
 
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You didn't just use MAF cleaner?

But yes you need to be super careful with oil-air filters, can foul your MAF sensors really easily if you go heavy on the oil, I used one in my old altima for 10 years without issue
but it also had a lot more plumbing before it reached the MAF.
No I just wiped them clean and blew air through them and saw lots of red oil come out from the filters, the car idles bad and keeps wanting to turn off so i ordered replacement maf for both sides, also gonna clean the throttle bodies and change spark plugs and coil packs. I’m sure all that is not needed but I drive my car like an a**hole so I’m sure it needs it
 
No I just wiped them clean and blew air through them and saw lots of red oil come out from the filters, the car idles bad and keeps wanting to turn off so i ordered replacement maf for both sides, also gonna clean the throttle bodies and change spark plugs and coil packs. I’m sure all that is not needed but I drive my car like an a**hole so I’m sure it needs it
Aye a throttle body cleaning is always a good idea on Nissan V6 motors, but some MAF cleaner would probably resolve your issue without having to order the parts.
Plugs and coil packs seem over-kill if you aren't around at least 50-60K miles but I get where your coming from I drive my cars pretty hard and like to go the extra mile
when I'm doing work on them. Hah
 
98136
Aye a throttle body cleaning is always a good idea on Nissan V6 motors, but some MAF cleaner would probably resolve your issue without having to order the parts.
Plugs and coil packs seem over-kill if you aren't around at least 50-60K miles but I get where your coming from I drive my cars pretty hard and like to go the extra mile
when I'm doing work on them. Hah
No I just wiped them clean and blew air through them and saw lots of red oil come out from the filters, the car idles bad and keeps wanting to turn off so i ordered replacement maf for both sides, also gonna clean the throttle bodies and change spark plugs and coil packs. I’m sure all that is not needed but I drive my car like an a**hole so I’m sure it needs it
Yes I was also gonna clean the throttle body as well, I got a p0101-00 “a” range code after driving a few days ago and the car just barely made it 15 miles home kept turning off at every stop light, I was messing with the maf by unplugging each side noticed the driver side said p010c-00 “b”and the passenger said p0102-00 “a” and I pray that fixes the issue. I also have 50k mikes so gonna switch out from gtr spark plugs to mr12s,
 
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