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So, at 34,000 miles, I have to admit I haven't touched my trans fluid. I didn't know we didn't have a dipstick until today. I guess I am ok with a drain plug and a filler plug. But usually, the drain plug is on the bottom and the filler plug is on the top or upper side and you fill the side filler hole (I use a syringe plunger) until fluid drips out. But our filler hole is on the bottom. ??? How the heck does that work?!

I'd like to do a drain and refill soon.
 

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2017 infiniti Q50 AWD
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I appreciate the input, but ultimately we don't know if the pinch welds are considered a level point for the car. Seems like a reasonable approach to take, sure, but I was curious if anyone knew if there was a point on the car to actually measure if it is level. Again if you have a sloped floor that would also contribute if you're relying on jack stands. So, measuring and adjusting would ensure you have things set as best as you can.
Pinch welds in the garage on same height jacks is the best you can ask for and plenty close enough. A small 1% slope isn’t going to really change anything.

when you drive you’re vehicle do you only drive on perfectly flat straight roads? What do you think the fluid is doing when going up hill, down hill, slopes to the side, turning, braking, accelerating etc...

I think you are over thinking it. Driveways may not be ideal depending on how that is. But a typical garage is more than adequate to count as a flat surface, and pinch welds are as close as you’ll get to car being level while jacked up.
 

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So, at 34,000 miles, I have to admit I haven't touched my trans fluid. I didn't know we didn't have a dipstick until today. I guess I am ok with a drain plug and a filler plug. But usually, the drain plug is on the bottom and the filler plug is on the top or upper side and you fill the side filler hole (I use a syringe plunger) until fluid drips out. But our filler hole is on the bottom. ??? How the heck does that work?!

I'd like to do a drain and refill soon.
It’s way simpler than it sounds.
You could do 1 drain and fill in the time it takes the engine oil to fully drain from pan if doing it at the same time.

you use this, do not overtighten just to point of slight resistance. It’s wrong thread pitch but still works perfectly.

Attwood 11891D7 Gear Lube Pump, One Size Amazon.com: Attwood 11891D7 Gear Lube Pump, One Size: Automotive

that goes in overflow you pump in your bottles turn car on cycle gears then pull plug with engine running to level it. If doing multiple youd pull drain plug and leave that lube pump connected only need to remove on final drain and fill to level.
 

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Pull oil plug, pull trans plug, recap trans, fill trans, recap oil, turn car on, cycle gears, pull pump wait till leveled cap overflow plug done. Add like 5mins and $40 to an oil change.
 

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Murrieta, CA, USA
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It’s way simpler than it sounds.
You could do 1 drain and fill in the time it takes the engine oil to fully drain from pan if doing it at the same time.

you use this, do not overtighten just to point of slight resistance. It’s wrong thread pitch but still works perfectly.

Attwood 11891D7 Gear Lube Pump, One Size Amazon.com: Attwood 11891D7 Gear Lube Pump, One Size: Automotive

that goes in overflow you pump in your bottles turn car on cycle gears then pull plug with engine running to level it. If doing multiple youd pull drain plug and leave that lube pump connected only need to remove on final drain and fill to level.
Ok, thanks. Gosh, still sounds difficult and I'm still confused why the filler plug is on the bottom and how that works. So you pump 3 1/8 QTs new ATF up into the filler hole, but doesn't it come right back out when you remove the pump from the filler hole? I can't wrap my head around the fill hole being on the bottom of the pan!
 

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Ok, thanks. Gosh, still sounds difficult and I'm still confused why the filler plug is on the bottom and how that works. So you pump 3 1/8 QTs new ATF up into the filler hole, but doesn't it come right back out when you remove the pump from the filler hole? I can't wrap my head around the fill hole being on the bottom of the pan!
You should do 3.5qts but why save .5qts so do 4qts. You want to intentionally overfill to level, plus you’ll just cycle that much more new fluid in.

Pull drain plug, once drained recap drain plug. Now no fluid is in pan. Now pull overflow plug, and put on adapter nozzle, and pump in 4qts (if only doing 1 D&F) with nozzle still plugged in nothing will backout of hole/nozzle. Turn car on and cycle gears 10sec each spot cycle twice (160seconds total) when engine/car is turned on the transmission will suck in about 1.5qts (idk exact amount but a good bit).

the pan is roughly 3” deep(don’t quote my dimensions doesn’t really matter), the overflow plug has a snorkel tube that sticks up 2”, when car is off fluid drains into pan filling up all 3” depth of pan, when car is on fluid is sucked up into transmission and fluid level is now 2” or at same height as the top of the overflow plug tube inside transmission pan. So if you pull overflow plug when car is off some (roughly 1.5qts) fluid will drain. If you pull overflow plug with car on it will “level” to the proper amount leaving up to top of overflow tube of fluid.

So on final drain and fill before leveling, intentionally overfill pan to 3.5” with car off or 2.5” when car is on (.5” over overflow tube) this way when car is on after cycling gears fluid will drain from overflow plug until it starts to dribble out the overflow hole and now you know it’s exactly the same height as the top of the overflow plug tube. I prefer to try to time it right at or a hair before it turns from a thread like stream to a dribble to recap overflow plug.
 
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You should do 3.5qts but why save .5qts so do 4qts. You want to intentionally overfill to level, plus you’ll just cycle that much more new fluid in.

Pull drain plug, once drained recap drain plug. Now no fluid is in pan. Now pull overflow plug, and put on adapter nozzle, and pump in 4qts (if only doing 1 D&F) with nozzle still plugged in nothing will backout of hole/nozzle. Turn car on and cycle gears 10sec each spot cycle twice (160seconds total) when engine/car is turned on the transmission will suck in about 1.5qts (idk exact amount but a good bit).

the pan is roughly 3” deep(don’t quote my dimensions doesn’t really matter), the overflow plug has a snorkel tube that sticks up 2”, when car is off fluid drains into pan filling up all 3” depth of pan, when car is on fluid is sucked up into transmission and fluid level is now 2” or at same height as the top of the overflow plug tube inside transmission pan. So if you pull overflow plug when car is off some (roughly 1.5qts) fluid will drain. If you pull overflow plug with car on it will “level” to the proper amount leaving up to top of overflow tube of fluid.

So on final drain and fill before leveling, intentionally overfill pan to 3.5” with car off or 2.5” when car is on (.5” over overflow tube) this way when car is on after cycling gears fluid will drain from overflow plug until it starts to dribble out the overflow hole and now you know it’s exactly the same height as the top of the overflow plug tube. I prefer to try to time it right at or a hair before it turns from a thread like stream to a dribble to recap overflow plug.
Excellent description, that helps a lot, thanks 17.
 

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Any problem executing this procedure in colder ambient temps, like 40 or maybe 50 degrees?
 

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Any problem executing this procedure in colder ambient temps, like 40 or maybe 50 degrees?
Nope just wear warm clothes. Lol.

Colder weather is preferred IMO, more time to level it properly without risking going over 104F and having to restart.
 

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I just leveled it like in the picture. My garage leans my car forward so had to adjust the front/back jacks to get the bubble in between the lines.
With the car running in park and after switching through the gears, I waited till pan got to 92 degrees, unplugged, started with a hairline drip at 95. At 100 I capped it, been driving it for a few days and can hardly notice any shifting. I feel comfortable doing this a second time, but first time around I felt very rusty.
 

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2016 Q50S AWD, [email protected], AMS LDP, MBPR CBE, HKS BOV,
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So, at 34,000 miles, I have to admit I haven't touched my trans fluid. I didn't know we didn't have a dipstick until today. I guess I am ok with a drain plug and a filler plug. But usually, the drain plug is on the bottom and the filler plug is on the top or upper side and you fill the side filler hole (I use a syringe plunger) until fluid drips out. But our filler hole is on the bottom. ??? How the heck does that work?!

I'd like to do a drain and refill soon.
I did the AFT change on my G37x and will be changing soon on my Q50, it's basically the same design/process. See dwg below for the detail on the filling point. In answer to your question, how does it work, the filling point has an inverted piece on it to give you a raise liquid level off the base of the pan. This is only relevant when the engine is running though. A correctly set ATF level will not allow fluid to drain with engine running (ATF pump etc on) but will allow fluid to drain from the overflow if the engine is not running, so it's imperative level is set with engine on as described. I took the pan off my old G37x (175k Miles) to look to see what had collected and change the filter, (which is where I noted the raised overflow pipe) and it was pretty clean. It's a PIA removing the pan, you need a new gasket and of course, one of the bolts stripped out on me too, so I won't be doing that on the Q50!

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I've run Mobil 1 Synthetic and Pro Honda (bikes) in everything ive owned - motor and standard trans - for a quarter century. Great stuff. Synthetic is the way, to be sure.

Do you see any gain in synthetic auto trans fluid. Oil is oil, but, i must admit i do not fully grasp the whole transmission fluid thing.
 
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