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I just spoke to a master tech at INFINITI on Atlantic in Jacksonville, FL and he specified I should let the fluid drain until it's just dripping and at this point it's overfilled. That's what I suspected but didn't want to take a chance.

For anyone who's interested in performing this maintenance themeselves, the desciption below Zilla's YouTube video has links to all the required tools and Nissan ATF fluid to complete the job. It's pretty straight forward👍
Nice of that tech to help you out with the question!
 
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From my research I see that once the transmission gets to 80k-100k+ replacing the ATF could cause issues. I plan on doing this every 30k, so would it be a good idea to stop after performing the 90k fluid change?
 
From my research I see that once the transmission gets to 80k-100k+ replacing the ATF could cause issues.
I feel that statement is a bit of an "old wives' tale." I understand the thought process behind it, but we are talking about modern vehicles and modern oils. If I had a vehicle that hadn't had its ATF replaced in 80-90k miles, I would still go and get it replaced. There have been plenty of reports of that having a positive impact. I've never seen one report on this forum that replacing the ATF after so many miles lead to issues.

I plan on doing this every 30k, so would it be a good idea to stop after performing the 90k fluid change?
No, you should continue to drain / fill your ATF on a regular cycle for as long as you own the vehicle.
 
Excellent write up and thanks for sharing OP!

I'm gathering all the necessary tools, parts and fluids now to do this soon, but the transmission overflow plug part # provided (31361-1XJ0A) shows that it does not fit any year model of the Q50. Will someone please confirm that this is indeed the correct part #? I have a 2016 for reference.
 
I did a drain and fill over the weekend and it’s definitely easier than I psyched myself up to be. Car has about 67k and is definitely shifting smoother than before. I’ll probably do it again in 10k or 20k miles. Attached is a photo of what came out.
 

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I did a drain and fill over the weekend and it’s definitely easier than I psyched myself up to be. Car has about 67k and is definitely shifting smoother than before. I’ll probably do it again in 10k or 20k miles. Attached is a photo of what came out.
Is that a cup of coffee or ATF? That needed to be changed.
 
I feel that statement is a bit of an "old wives' tale." I understand the thought process behind it, but we are talking about modern vehicles and modern oils. If I had a vehicle that hadn't had its ATF replaced in 80-90k miles, I would still go and get it replaced. There have been plenty of reports of that having a positive impact. I've never seen one report on this forum that replacing the ATF after so many miles lead to issues.


No, you should continue to drain / fill your ATF on a regular cycle for as long as you own the vehicle.
This is my situation i am in now, that I don't want to believe the dealership , and change the ATF, even if I have to do it myself.
 
Is that a cup of coffee or ATF? That needed to be changed.
LOL! It’s definitely ATF fluid that needed to be changed. I got the car off a lease at around 36k and took the dealership and service manuals word about it being a lifetime fluid until I did some more research.
 
LOL! It’s definitely ATF fluid that needed to be changed. I got the car off a lease at around 36k and took the dealership and service manuals word about it being a lifetime fluid until I did some more research.
Is the specified vehicle tuned? Multiple reputable sources specify that if the vehicle is tuned a 30k mile interval is required. I practice this on my own vehicle.
 
Just to be clear, the fluid level needs to be checked while the car is running and idling at the proper 104 degree temp? Is it safe to say if the fill plug is removed and fluid immediately starts streaming out that the transmission was over-filled? I say this after just changing the valve body that failed on me. I changed it myself, however, I am not confident I got the fluid levels back in there correctly. Any thoughts?
 
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From my research I see that once the transmission gets to 80k-100k+ replacing the ATF could cause issues. I plan on doing this every 30k, so would it be a good idea to stop after performing the 90k fluid change?
You're probably thinking of a transmission flush, not simply a drain and fill. A transmission flush on an older transmission can cause problems.
 
I've heard before that if the fluid is burnt, it's better not to change it. I don't agree with that.
 
- Also, do you know what it is referring to in running the sub electric oil pump HBC-20 "HYBRID CONTROL SYSTEM" (step 4, line k)?
Regarding ATF replacement on hybrid. There is step (i) for bleeding air from electric pump "For bleeding air from the sub electric oil pump, run the motor continuously for approximately 30 seconds." Which motor they mean, engine or motor of electric pump. If second, how to run it? I believe it will run in EV mode on D, correct?
After this step, inspection mode 5 shall be turned on (step 5 below). If I understand correctly in this mode petrol engine will run and electric pumps doesn't but I am not sure why they mention to control electric pump rpm, it should be 0... and what to do if electric pump will run (step 19)

Here is procedure from FSM

f. Fill approximately 3 liters (3-1/8 US qt, 2-5/8 lmp qt) of the ATF.
g. Remove the bucket pump hose and the charging pipe, then temporarily
tighten the overflow plug to the oil pan.
CAUTION:
Quickly perform the procedure to avoid ATF leakage from
the oil pan.
j. Lift down the vehicle.
i. For bleeding air from the sub electric oil pump, run the motor continuously for approximately 30 seconds.
For motor running state, refer to HBC-20, "HYBRID CONTROL SYSTEM : System Description".
j. Turn ignition switch OFF.
4. Turn ignition switch ON.
5. Set the vehicle to inspection mode 5 state. Refer to TM-9, "Precautions Concerning On-board Servicing of
Hybrid Systems".
6. Select “Data Monitor” in “TRANSMISSION” with CONSULT.
7. Select “ATF TEMP 1” and “SUB E-OP REVOLUTION”.
8. Check that the “ATF TEMP 1” value is 35°C (95°F) or less.
9. Set the vehicle to READY.
10. Shift the selector lever through each gear position. Leave selector lever in “P” position.
11. Lift up the vehicle.
12. Remove engine under cover rear.
13. Check the ATF leakage from transmission.
14. Install the O-ring (315268E000) (A) to the charging pipe
(310811EA5A) (B).
15. Remove overflow plug from oil pan. Refer to TM-243, "Exploded View".
Install the charging pipe (A) to the overflow plug hole.
CAUTION:
Tighten the charging pipe by hand.
17. Install the bucket pump hose (B) to the charging pipe.
18. Fill approximately 0.5 liters (1/2 US qt, 1/2 lmp qt) of the ATF.
19. Check that the ATF leaks when removing the bucket pump hose. If the ATF does not leak, refill the ATF.
CAUTION:
• Perform this work the vehicle idling.
• Check that the “Data Monitor” “SUB E-OP REVOLUTION” is 0 rpm.
When the ATF starts to drip, remove the charging pipe.
21. Tighten the overflow plug to the oil pan to the specified torque. Refer to TM-243, "Exploded View".
CAUTION:
Never reuse drain plug and drain plug gasket. Failure to do this may cause the leakage of ATF.
22. Install engine under cover rear.
23. Lift down the vehicle.
24. Turn ignition switch OFF.
 
didn't use the Yamaha adapter, just cut the tube and squeezed it in, did the job but is definitely more tiring because sometimes I had to use one hand to hold it in place.
The red adapter of this cheap Harbor Freight transfer pump threads perfectly into the fill hole of the Q50 transmission. I have drained and filled several times and never spill a drop. I cut the non-threaded end of that nozzle/adapter a little bigger so that the fluid flows easier. The red tube secures tightly to the nozzle side and it works great.

 
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Which motor they mean, engine or motor of electric pump. If second, how to run it? I believe it will run in EV mode on D, correct?
While warming up engine I turned off climate control to let faster hybrid system switch in EV mode. It switched to EV when ATF temperature was still around 20C (engine was already around 60C), electric pump turned on and I run through P-R-N-D to bleed the air. After that I turned service mode 5 and continue warming up gearbox. Around 2.7 liters left in the pan after draining via overfill plug. Initially I drained 2.5 liters of ATF, so looks like gearbox was underfilled by 200 ml.
According to previous owner, he did replace ATF with Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800, drained liquid was dark/dirty yellow. I filled Amsoil ATL and gear box works better with amsoil, previously I felt downshifts during braking, like gear box was switching a bit late, now it disappeared and in general it works better.

ATF has been replaced by draining and filling 2 times. Initially I planned replace ATF via ATF cooler, but when we start inject liquid in return pipe it was coming back from supply line, strange, there should be some bypass or something not letting liquid getting to the pan. Maybe because this gearbox has 2 pumps. For this reason dynamic liquid replacement could be not efficient as well. Replacement via ATF cooler worked for me with 3.7 engine. Anyway, since this gear box doesn't have torque converter, even after first drain refill liquid was fresh and clear.
 
Getting ready to change the ATF in my 14 q50 hybrid. Looking through this thread and others, I gathered these part numbers for the job. Can anyone confirm these is accurate?

Fill/overflow plug (does not have a gasket/crush washer?): 31361-1XJ0A
Drain plug: 31377-31X06
Drain plug gasket: 11026-31X00
 
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